Barcelona: Where to Stay [Apartments III]

If you're looking for a budget apartment in Barcelona (or London, Rome, Prague, etc.), look no further than ClickBed. The Barcelona-based website offers every type of accomodation, from hostels to apartments in bed and breakfasts, in a host of European and world cities. With prices as low as 15€ per guest, per night, you really can't go wrong- no matter what your budget is!

Top 5 Clickbed Apartments in Barcelona

5: Apartamentos BCNStop Parc Guell Barcelona      20€ per person, per night

Sleeps 4      85m²

Amenities include: Balconey, TV

(M) Valcarca i els Penitents


4: Apartamento Provenza 153 Barcelona      22.60€ per person, per night (cash only)

Sleeps 6      87m²

Amenities include: DVD player, dishwasher, washer, dryer, TV, WiFi

(M) Hospital Clinic


3: Jerico Suites and Apartments Barcelona      27.50€ per person, per night (cash only)

Sleeps 5      58m²

Amenities include: Balconey, washer, dryer, TV, WiFi

(M) Vall D'Hebron


2: Apartamento Ronda de Sant Pere 28 Barcelona      23.50€ per person, per night (cash only)

Sleeps 8      140m²

Amenities include: DVD player, dishwasher, washer, dryer, TV, WiFi

(M) Urquinaona


1: Picasso Apartments Barcelona       34.75€ per person, per night (excluding cleaning fee)

Sleeps 3      35m²

Amenities include: Washer and dryer (shared), TV

(M) Barceloneta

Barcelona: Where to Stay [Apartments II]

In January, I made a list of my top 10 favourite apartments for rent through VRBO in Paris. VRBO is an international vacation-rental website representing apartments in hundreds, if not thousands, of cities worldwide. Pricing is set by the apartment owners, so there is no uniformity or guarantee that you'll be getting a good deal. That said, I've heard nothing but rave reviews from travellers who have stayed in properties represented by VRBO.

Top VRBO Apartments in Barcelona

6: #49766      Ciutat Vella      68€/night [Discounts: 10% off 7+ night/20% off 14+ nights/30% off 30+ nights]

Sleeps 2

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, TV, DVD player, WiFi

(M) Arc de Triomf

5: #225492      Ramblas      1400€/month

Sleeps 2-3

Amenities include: Washer, TV, DVD player, dishwasher, WiFi, patio

(M) Urquinaona


4: #26456      Eixample      92€/night [Discounts: 30% off in low season/15% off during mid-season; 12% off 7+ nights/20% off 14+ nights/30% off 30+ nights]

Sleeps 4-6

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, TV, DVD, patio, WiFi

(M) Verdaguer


3: #30675      Eixample      92€/night [Discounts: 30% off in low season/15% off during mid-season; 12% off 7+ nights/20% off 14+ nights/30% off 30+ nights]

Sleeps 4-6

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, TV, DVD, patio, WiFi

(M) Verdaguer


2: #272105       Eixample      95€ night/600€ week/1300€ month

Sleeps 2-4

Amenities include: Washer, TV, DVD, WiFi

(M) Diagonal


1: #272104      Barri Gotic       95€ night/600€ week/1350€ month

Sleeps 3-5

Amenities include: Washer, TV, DVD, dishwasher, patio

(M) Liceu

Barcelona: Where to Stay [Apartments I]

My dear friends at Ah Paris recommend Lodging in Barcelona to travellers looking for holiday apartments in Barcelona. As usual, they're right on. If you're looking for a place to stay in Barcelona, for a short time or a long time, this may be the company for you. Below you'll find a list of my favourite Lodging in Barcelona apartments, arranged in no particular order. But be sure to visit the company's website for even more apartment options.

[Note: Lodging in Barcelona charges a small cleaning fee, as well as a reservation fee. Discounts of up to 30% can apply to last-minute bookings.]

Lodging in Barcelona - Top 10

#10 Barceloneta 1       (M) Barceloneta      45m²      Sleeps 3

65€ night/350€ week/900€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, oven, washer




#9 Barceloneta Beach A       (M) Ciutadella-Villa Olimpica       40m²      Sleeps 4

70€ night/500€ week/ 1200€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, oven, washer




#8 Design Born       (M) Barceloneta      50m²      Sleeps 2

80€ night/ 504€ week/ 1500€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, washer




#7 Diagonal Mar 1      (M) Bac de Roda      50m²      Sleeps 2

70€ night/ 450€ week/ 1350€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, washer




#6 Ciutadella      (M) Arc de Triomf      32m²      Sleeps 3

50€ night/ 350€ week/ 1100€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, oven, washer




#5 Colon 5      (M) Barceloneta      70m²      Sleeps 4

80€ night/ 500€ week/ 1200€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, washer, dishwasher




#4 Marina       (M) Monumental      65m²      Sleeps 5

86€ night/ 598€ week/ 1200€ month

Amenities include: TV, internet, oven, washer




#3 Sagrada Familia 3      (M) Monumental      40m²      Sleeps 4

70€ night/ 450€ week/ 1200€ month

Amenities include: TV, DVD player, internet, washer, dryer




#2 Sagrada Familia P.2       (M) Monumental      80m²      Sleeps 6

100€ night/ 630€ week/ 1500€ month

Amenities include: DVD player, internet, washer, dishwasher, bathtub




#1 Apartment Duplex Garcia       (M) Hospital Sant Pau      112m²      Sleeps 6

100€ night/ 630€ week/ 1500€ month

Amenities include: TV, internet, washer, dishwasher

Barcelona: Where to Stay [Hotels]

No matter what area of Barcelona you hope to stay in and what attractions you want to visit, there are thousands of hotels to choose from. I've listed my favourite choices below, organised by area. I particularly recommend the Medium Hotel chain for travellers on a budget. I have booked with them myself and can say unequivocally that they offer excellent accommodations at very reasonable prices.

Ciutat Vella

This area is Barcelona's old town. Situated in the heart of Barcelona, it encompasses the Barri Gotica and Las Ramblas. Area attractions include Plaça Catalunya, El Mercat de Sant Josep and Gran Teatre de Liceu. Ciutat Vella is a lively, action-packed neighbourhood, but beware- it can be noisy all night long.

Hotel Medium Monegal - Pelai 62      (M) Catalunya

Basic but comfortable and clean accommodation in the centre of Barcelona. Continental breakfast is included with some reservations.

Eixample

Constructed in the 19th and 20th centuries, this area connects old Barcelona to the towns that once surrounded it. Area attractions include two of the houses built by Antoni Gaudi; Casa Mila and Casa Batllo, and the Sagrada Familia Cathedral.

Hotel Caledonian - Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 574       (M) Universitat

Beautifully furnished and maintained hotel on the outskirts of Eixample. Lively nightlife in the streets nearby.

Hotel del Comte - Disputacio 148      (M) Urgell

Budget accommodation near the University of Barcelona campus. Excellent price/quality parity.

Hotel Medium Aristol - Cartagena 369      (M) Guinardo

One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags stayed here! I can't say enough good things about this hotel. It is immaculately clean and quiet, with beautiful sweeping views of the hills of Barcelona. The staff is extremely friendly and helpful. Metro stop Guinardo is only a hop, skip and a jump away. Transportation to all major tourist attractions is seamless. Excellent restaurants nearby. La Sagrada Familia Cathedral is within easy walking distance.

Gracia

The town of Gracia was established in 1626 by Carmelite monks. It was annexed by Barcelona in 1897. Area attractions include Park Guell and the third of Antoni Gaudi's famous houses; Casa Vincens.

Hotel Ronda Lesseps - Ballester 77-81       (M) Lesseps

With an excellent location near Park Guell, this hotel is ideal for travellers who love to explore the outdoors.

Horta-Guinardo

This is a quiet, hilly neighbourhood. If you want a restful, tranquil place to return to after a busy day of sightseeing in bustling Barcelona, Horta-Guinardo is an excellent choice.

Hotel Alimara - Berruguete 126      (M) Mundet

A picturesque terraced property near Passeig de la Vall d'Hebron has been designed to let in the most sunlight possible. If you don't mind travelling a bit further to tourist destinations, this is an excellent choice; the scenery is breath-taking.

Les Corts

The business and financial centre of Barcelona, Les Corts is also home to Camp Nou, the training ground of Barcelona's Football Club. This area is a must for European Football fans.

Aparthotel Atenea - Joan Guell 207-211      (M) Maria Cristina

Part of the City Hotels chain based in Barcelona, this four-star establishment is modern and stylishly furnished.

Sant Marti

Until recently, Sant Marti was the industrial centre of Barcelona. With a border on the Mediterranean, the neighbourhood has become a thriving residential community with beautiful beaches. Area attractions include Avenida Diagonal and Agbar Tower.

Hotel Vincci Condal Mar - Cristobal de Moura 138      (M) El Maresme Forum

With a beautiful outdoor swimming pool and unusual elliptical shape, this stylish boutique hotel is ideal for travellers who want somewhere to stay, not just a place to sleep.

Sants-Montjuic

Occupying one fifth of Barcelona's total area, this neighbourhood was the site of the 1992 summer Olympics. Area attractions include the Estadi Olimpic de Montjuic, Palau Sant Jordi and the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya.

Expo Hotel Barcelona - Explotacion Hotel Expo Sa Mallorca 1-23      (M) Sants Estacio

If you plan on taking in any football matches while in Barcelona, this Expo Hotel Barcelona is an ideal place to stay; Camp Nou, located in Les Corts, is just one short kilometre away.

Hotel Parallel - Calle del Poeta Cabanyes 5-7      (M) Parallel

A budget hotel that can be booked for bargain prices through Expedia. Don't expect too many luxuries, just a clean, affordable place to sleep.

Sarria-Sant Gervasi

Originally a Roman colony, Sarria-Sant Gervasi is made up of four small villages- Sarria, Vallvidrera, Santa Creu d'Olorda and Sant Gervasi. The area still has quaint village feeling, with narrow streets and unique homes.

Hotel Zenit Barcelona - Santalo 8      (M) Hospital Clinic

If you want to explore Sarria-Sant Gervasi, this hotel is the perfect starting point. The neighbourhood is quiet, and there will be few other tourists around.

Hola Barcelona!

Aún tiene tu cielo todas sus flores diamantinas; sus héroes tiene la patria, sus liras el amor; aún Clemencia Isaura rosas y englantinas da cada primavera como presente al trovador.

- A Barcelona, Jacinto Verdaguer

Barcelona sits on the Iberian coast, facing the Mediterranean sea. It is bordered by the Collserola Mountains, hemmed by the Llobregat and Besos rivers. It is the capital of the Autonomous Region of Catalonia. Its residents, mostly Catholic, speak Spanish and their own rolling Catalan. The city is all jewel tones; emerald hills, aquamarine water, andalusite sand and rose quartz stone. Influenced by the topography and by one of their own famous sons, Antoni Gaudi, the architecture seeks to imitate, rather than dominate, nature.

This Spanish port city is more than flamenco dancing and weeping guitars; more than beaches and bikinis. It has not inspired as many books, poems or paintings as its neighbours, the French and Italian capitals. In spite of its colourful exterior, Barcelona is surprisingly subtle. It flies under the radar. Like a beautiful girl who feels out of place at a party, Barcelona stands back, waiting for you to come to her. You probably won't notice her at first. You may not even notice her when she's right in front of you. But when you take a good look around the room, she is the one who will catch your eye.

Barcelona has style and substance. If you just want to party, go to Ibiza. If you want to lie on the beach, try Mallorca. You can do both of those things in Barcelona, but there is so much more to the city than sand, sun and spirits. From never-ending open-air markets to lush parks and breathtaking views, this city has everything you could possibly ask of a tourist destination. I can't wait to share it with you.

If you have any specific questions about Barcelona, don't hesitate to get in touch! If I can't answer immediately, I promise to investigate.

Aurevoir Paris!

It's been a glorious few months. I have taken immeasurable enjoyment in reliving my time in Paris... perusing my favourite boutiques, sipping Orangina at my favourite cafés...

Writing this takes me back to early March 2009. I remember sitting curled up at the corner of the couch in my apartment on rue de Clignancourt, waiting for Jéremy to return and collect my keys. I considered rushing to the Canadian consulate and pleading for a European passport. I considered absconding with the keys, disappearing into a crowd of tourists, never to be seen again. In the end, I gave in. I locked my door one last time and dragged my enormous suitcase down the sidewalk to Barbès-Rochechouart metro station, onto the train, off the train, through Gare du Nord, onto the RER to Charles-de-Gaulle aéroport. I left Paris. It nearly killed me, but I left.

I am loathe to leave Paris behind even in print. I could expound upon its wonders for years and never run out of things to say. But the fact is, life goes on. Often, it goes on in different places, with different people. Just like that day on the couch, I know that it's time for me- and One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags- to move on. Before I do, I want to thank everyone who has been along for the ride. It's been fun.

Aurevoir, Paris! Je serai de retour un jour!

For now, it's full speed ahead to Barcelona. If there's anything specific you want to know about the city, don't hesitate to ask!

Paris Top Ten

The things you absolutely must see, do and eat during your visit to the French capital...

See

10. La Tour Eiffel

I know it's cliché, but if you only saw one thing when you were in Paris, it would have to be this iconic monument.

9. Le Musée du Louvre

The Louvre is home to one of the most impressive art collections in the world. Visit multiple times and you still won't be able to see everything. Still, it's worth the trip- and the admission price- even if you only have time to see one wing.

8. Basilique Sacré-Coeur

If you only have time to see one famous church while you're in Paris, make it this one. It is by far the most unusual and impressive.

7. Le Musée d'Orsay

Since the Musée d'Orsay houses the modern portion of the Louvre's art collection, you can't- or at least you shouldn't- visit one and miss the other.

Do

6. Shop at Galéries-Lafayette

This department store is a shoppers paradise and tourist attraction all in one. Admire the fabulous architecture while you peruse the plethora of make-up counters and endless array of shoes.

5. Relax at O'Kari Hammam

Refresh after a long day of sightseeing with relaxing Middle Eastern body treatments at this womens' only spa.

4. Discover French Pop

France has produced some extremely talented and critically acclaimed musicians, including Serge Gainsbourg. Take the time to listen to what's on the radio, or tune in to NRJ. It really doesn't matter if you can understand what the lyrics mean.

Eat

3. Macarons

Whether or not they're from Ladurée, make sure you try these almond-based sandwich cookies. No one can make them quite like the French.

2. At Restaurant Afghani

If you've never had Afghan cuisine before, this is the best place to be introduced to it. If you're familiar with Afghan dishes, visit Afghani for a French twist on your favourites, like aushak and baklawa.

1. Street food

Eat paninis. Sample crêpes, gauffres and beignets. Wash them down with Organina. They're all part of a truly authentic Parisian experience. And they're delicious.

Paris: Montmartre

Je vous parle d'un temps que les moins de vingt ans ne peuvent pas connaître. Montmartre en ce temps-là accrochait ses lilas jusque sous nos fenêtres et si l'humble garni qui nous servait de nid ne payait pas de mine c'est là qu'on s'est connu, moi qui criait famine et toi qui posait nue...

La Bohème, Charles Aznavour

The word Montmartre comes from Mons Martis, an ancient name meaning Mountain of Mars. The name was christianised in honour of Saint Denis, a martyr who was decapitated on la butte Montmartre around 250 AD. Located outside of Parisian city limits well into the 19th century, Montmartre was a village. Nuns made wine here- a small vineyard still operates on rue Saint-Vincent. The Russians launched an attack on Paris from the top of la butte Montmartre in 1814, during the Franco-Prussian War.

When Baron Haussman resolved to make Paris the most beautiful city in Europe, he and his friends inherited much of the land in central Paris, driving its residents to outlying areas. Many of them went to Montmartre.

Montmartre was annexed by Paris in 1860. It became the city's 18th arrondissement. The neighbourhood had a reputation for decadence and debauchery. It was home to artists and performers. Music halls like Le Chat Noir and Le Moulin Rouge sprang up. Cubism was born in the area; destitute artists, including Picasso and Modigliani, lived in an artists commune called Le Bateau-Lavoir, on rue Ravignan, in the early 20th century. Construction of Sacré-Coeur, the cathedral that now draws tourists to Montmartre, did not begin until 1876. The cathedral was completed in 1912, just before the beginning of the first World War.

Artists still gather in Montmartre, at Place du Tertre, but the area is not the Bohemian paradise of yesteryear, a fact that has been much lamented. Le Moulin Rouge now finds itself in Paris' red light district. A major trucking bridge runs over the Cimétière de Montmartre, the final resting place of many of the areas most famous residents. Granted, several films have recently been shot in the area, including La Vie en Rose and Amélie. And the neighbourhood has been given a historic designation, which limits development. The Lapin Agile is still open. If you care to take a walk up the hill, you can visit the two oldest windmills in Paris (once part of a fourteen-mill collective called Moulin de la Galette), le Blute-fin and le Radet.

Parisians lament the perceived decline of Montmartre- the influx of tourists, the increase in property prices, the lack of artistic community... Let my rebuttal by this; Montmartre was my home. I have only known it in its modern incarnation. Whatever it might have been once, it likely is not now, but all things change with time. I love the place for what it is; not what it might be. I love it anyway.

Montmartre is gritty. French is no longer its first language. The fabled artists have been replaced by North Africans, single mothers, young couples who can't really afford to live in Paris. Montmartre is a powderkeg. It seeths and strains, full to bursting. Discount bins of irregular socks line the sidewalks on boulevard de la Chapelle. Car horns, rickety grocery carts and the chant of bootleg cigarette vendors- "Marlboro, Marlboro, Marlboro! Rouge, jaune! Rouge, jaune!"- beat a constant rhythm. The scent of cooking crêpes is overpowered by the stench of gas-burnt chestnuts, sold out of oil drums. Play Three Card Monte. I dare you. If you have long dark hair, put a scarf over it. (If you don't, men will hiss at you. I'll let you guess why.) Posters inciting riots decorate the metro station. Knock-off Louis Vuitton purses are as good as any fakes you'll find, but beware of the peddlers holding bottles green-tinged of Chanel Number 5.

Fodor's will probably tell you to stay away from the neighbourhood. Run up the hill, they'll say, take a picture of the cathedral, run back down and get out.

They're wrong. The best thing you can do is spend time in Montmartre. Sure, hold your purse. But after a few days, the pickpockets recognise you as well as you recognise them. You know their scam, they know yours. It's business. And don't forget, rewards are often proportionate to risk. Walk down the dark streets. Brave Barbès-Rochechouart metro station at night- the gates are broken on an almost daily basis, so you rarely have to pay your fare. The truth is, if you walk just a few blocks from boulevard de la Chapelle and you'll find yourself in a charming, quiet neighbourhood. Put your map away and wander the narrow, winding streets. You're not lost as long as you can tell whether you're moving up or down hill. Visit the Espace Dalí Montmartre, and Église Saint-Pierre, the oft-ignored elder brother of Cathédrale Sacré-Coeur. Stop in at the Musée de la vie romantique even if you aren't a fan of George Sand. It's free, and worth while to admire the architecture in the old house, which has been standing since around 1820. Experience the eerie quiet of Cimétière de Montmartre. When you fall in love with this city within a city- and you will- visit the Musée de Montmartre. Housed in the Manoir du Rosimond- a manor dating from 1680 that belonged to Claude de la Rose, a member of Molière's troupe- once scheduled for demolition, the museum showcases the artistic and historic treasures of a vibrant area.

Montmartre still has some of the best food in Paris. When you're in the neighbourhood, enjoy Afghan cuisine on rue Paul-Albert; thin crust pizza on rue de Clignancourt; falafel on rue Ordener. Don't forget to pick up a fresh baked baguette at Boulangerie Clignancourt before you go. And on your way to the metro station, order a gauffre chantilly at the enormous crêpe stand on the median between the two sides of boulevard de la Chapelle. If you decide to stay nearby, you can enjoy these culinary wonders regularly.

Perhaps I'm biased, but I do think Montmartre is the perfect place to stay in Paris. It's central enough that transport to major attraction is quick and easy; at the same time, it's far enough that you can leave the majority of other tourists behind at the end of the day. It's quiet in the early morning and in the evening. Everything you need, from grocery stores to laundromats to souvenir shops and tourist attractions, is within walking distance. So much of the art that Paris is known for was created on its streets and in its cafés.

I know that if you give Montmartre the chance that tour books don't, you'll come to love it the way I do.

And the winner is...

...Barcelona!

One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags will be packing up and heading there sometime in the next week. Get ready!

Paris: Random

While doing research for and posting in this blog, I have come across a few little gems that are just too good to go unmentionned. Although it may seem that I've made a lot of lists thus far, they are by no means exhaustive. Before we leave Paris- our departure will, sadly, take place within the next few days- I want to share them with you.

More great stuff in Paris

If you're looking for a hotel in Paris, why not try...

Hôtel Eugénie - 31, rue Saint-André-des-Arts      (M) Saint-Michel

An adorable little hotel that recently underwent complete renovations. The current rating is two stars, and the reasonable price reflects that. However, with all the recent updates (including beautiful work to the bathrooms, new carpets and all new bedding), these prices won't last long. Even so, you would be hard pressed to find a better hotel, even for more money, in such a great location. Just steps away from Place Saint-Michel, Hôtel Eugenie is where the action is... and where many of my favourite cafés and shops are. It is not to be missed.

If you have a larger budget and are looking for an apartment, I recommend...

Perfectlyparis.com

This website, run by Gail Boisclair, a Canadian ex-pat, rents beautiful apartments- most of which are located in my old neighbourhood, Montmartre. Although these apartments are outside of my low-budget price range, if you have a bit more money to work with, I would highly recommend them. My personal favourite, seen at left, is the Countess Luxury Suite. Located at 10bis, rue Yvonne le Tac, the apartment is immaculate, beautifully decorated and simply oozing Parisian charm.

If you want to mix and mingle with the jetset, reserve a table at...

Buddha Bar - 8/12, rue Boissy d'Anglas      (M) Concorde

Part of the George V Eatertainment (it's so cheesy, I know) Group, Buddha Bar is as renowned for its posh clientèle as it is for its Asian inspired cuisine. That said, the cuisine gets nothing but good reviews. Moreover, the decor alone makes Buddha Bar worth the trip. I know I'll be stopping by the next time I'm in Paris.

If you want a great meal on the run, grab something at...

Chez le Libanais - 35, rue Saint-André-des-Arts      (M) Saint-Michel

I didn't write about this modern Lebanese spot sooner because, no matter how I wracked my brain, I could not remember the name of it. Chez le Libanais is almost like a crêpe shop. They serve manakiche (also known as manouché) almost exclusively, and in almost every flavour (both savoury and sweet) that you can imagine. I highly recommend the Taouk (chicken, garlic cream, tomato and pickles) and the Dajaj (grilled chicken, pineapple, mint, olives.)

Happy travels!

Paris: Where to Shop [V]

There is more to life than shoes, clothes and jewelry. It's hard to believe, I know. Some of the stores on this list sell items of the non-wearable variety. (Some do sell clothes, granted. If any of my readers have the kind of budget required to shop at Didier Ludot and Colette, lucky you! For me, they're more like a museums.) Some of the places aren't even really stores, they simply didn't fit into any of the other categories I've written about. Take from it what you will... this is a list of cool places of business that happen to be in Paris, c'est tout.

When in Paris, take a peek inside these shops; you might find something you love...

Le Bon Marché - 38, rue de Sèvres      (M) Sèvres-Babylone

The oldest department store in Paris opened its doors in 1838. Although the store is nowhere near as magnificent as Galéries Lafayette, they do sell things that you won't find anywhere else.

Colette - 213, rue Saint-Honoré      (M) Tuileries

Part museum, part hipster hangout, part store, Colette is a bizarre amalgamation of designer and streetwear; loud music and Lanvin. Their selection of literature is nothing if not interesting. Look for quirky gadgets and limited edition trainers, both of which they sell in spades. Very little of what is for sale at Colette has a practical application, but it's a lot of fun to explore.

Didier Ludot - 24, galérie du Montpensier      (M) Bourse

Vintage designer clothes. Classic Chanel. Need I say more?

Fnac - Thirteen locations in Paris

A French alternative to the Virgin Megastore, Fnac sells music, movies, books, electronics and concert tickets. You can find CDs of all the French singles you've listened to on NRJ and fallen in love with at this store. And you will have to buy them in CD form; iTunes France isn't available to North Americans.

Galéries Laffitte - 27, rue Laffitte      (M) Le Peletier

Although it has come to my attention that most people find my obsession with paper products bizarre, if you love fancy notebooks and stationary, there is no better place to find the perfect one than Galéries Laffitte.

Marionnaud - Multiple locations in Paris

The French answer to Sephora, Marionnaud sells make-up, hair care and body care products. Their selection of Bourjois make-up is phenomenal. Best of all, whereas most Sephora's are located in heavy-traffic tourist areas, you will likely be able to find a Marionnaud in your own neighbourhood.

O'Kari Hammam - 22, rue Dussoubs      (M) Réaumur-Sébastopol

If you've never been to a hammam before, you're missing out on a phenomenal spa experience. Steaming, soaking, scrubbing and massaging are all part of this Middle Eastern ritual, transported to rue Dussoubs by Karima Lasfar, a native of Ghardaia in Algeria. A mere 90€ buys you a treatment that includes a eucalyptus bath, black soap exfoliation, gommage, full body wash, shampoo and scalp massage, whirlpool bath and blowdry. It's worth every centime.

Parashop - Fourteen locations in Paris

French women approach skin care like the science that it is. They have a cream for everything, from anti-aging to bust-lifting. And you can find them all at Parashop, a "pharmacy" that specialises in cosmetic treatments. To find out how to treat all skin woes you didn't even know you had, be sure to stop in.

Princesse Tam-Tam - Twenty-six locations in Paris

For girls like me, who can't afford to spend hours lavishing in the attention of sales staff at Agent Provocateur, there is Princesse Tam-Tam; the home of French lingerie for the girl nextdoor. From cute panties to lacey bras, you really can't go wrong here. Best of all, the prices are so reasonable, you can leave the store will a whole bag full of new things.

Viseart - 58, rue Charlot      (M) Filles du Calvaire

Viseart is the sophisticated older sister of Make-up Forever. A professional make-up company, they specialise in silicone-free products and strive to achieve a "no make-up" look. They won't simply send you away with products to let you figure things out for yourself. The shop provides teaching makeovers, where make-up is applied to one half of your face, leaving you to practise your new skills on the other half.

Paris: Where to Shop [IV]

Parisians don't accessorize too much- you won't see too many stacked bangles or long layered necklaces on rue de Rivoli. But, as with all other elements of fashion, what they do, they do very well. A carefully chosen watch, subtle but uniquely shaped studs, a delicate necklace... If you're looking for accessories that you'll wear and love for a lifetime, Paris is the place to find them.

When in Paris, shop for jewellery at...

Gudule Sa - 70, rue Saint-André-des-Arts      (M) Saint-Michel

You won't see any price tags at Gudule; almost all of the jewelry here is sold by weight. Don't worry- there don't have to be surprises. You can have your favourite items weighed before deciding which ones to buy. (Buyer beware: the most expensive items are kept in locked cases. Anything that has to be liberated by an employee will not be a budget buy.) The pieces here are imported from Africa, most of them handmade by Tuareg women. Expect intricately shaped silver pendants, earrings and bracelets dotted with semi-precious amber, moonstone and quartz. It can look a bit bohemian, particularly in such a high concentration, but paired with the right outfit, Gudule's jewels are positively chic.

Harem - 130, boulevard Saint-Germain /8, cour du commerce Saint-André       (M) Odéon

Nestled into a small alleyway between rue Saint-André-des-Arts and boulevard Saint-Germain you will find Harem, a romantic and feminine shop. The window displays positively glitter. Step inside to find a unique collection of jewelry from French lines like Tortuga, Babylone and, my personal favourite, Jacqueline Singh. [Note: Jacqueline also has her own boutique; see below.] Although all the pieces you'll find here are new, they have an antique, vintage feel... a timeless quality that will make you come back to them again and again over the years.

In a Red Box - 163, rue Saint-Martin       (M) Rambuteau

I haven't visited this small jewelry shop myself, but I've heard wonderful things about it. In a Red Box has a group on Facebook and will soon offer online shopping through their website. It's definitely worth visit when you're in Paris. Everything really does come in a red box.

Jacqueline Singh - 40, rue des Petits Champs      (M) Pyramides

My favourite Parisian jeweler recently opened her first retail shop in the 2eme arrondissement. I love vintage jewelry- antiqued gold, sparkling gem stones and enormous cocktail rings. Every year, Jacqueline Singh makes two collections- spring and fall- that satisfy every single one of my jewellery desires, all in of-the-moment colours. Vintage lovers and classic beauties, don't miss Jacqueline's shop. Even if the jewellery I described really doesn't sound like your style, visit Jacqueline's shop. Every single piece of her jewelry is handmade in France. Even if you don't love it, I can guarantee that you know someone who will.

As always, if you know of any other wonderful jewellery shops, feel free to share! Happy shopping!

Paris: Where to Shop [III]

One post couldn't begin to cover all of the wonderful places to shop in Paris. Voici la deuxième partie de la liste...

When in Paris, you must also shop at...

Perle Noire - 40, rue Dauphine      (M) Odéon

This one-room boutique exudes Parisian charm. From the hardwood floors to the high bun and cat's eye glasses on the shopkeeper, Perle Noire is everything you imagine a high-end French shop to be. The hanging racks showcase unique pieces, from dresses to layered tops. There are a few pairs of Repetto shoes in the front window, too.

Pimkie - Eight locations in Paris

As far as low-end chain stores are concerned, Pimkie is at the bottom of the barrel, just steps above the likes of Jennyfer and Sympa. (You will see these stores around Paris; unless you like digging through bins of loose underwear, I suggest avoiding them.) At sale time, their prices can dip as low as 2€. But don't write the store off based on their tawdry window displays. Pimkie makes great basics, and you really can't argue with prices that are under 10€.

Promod - Seventeen locations in Paris

This is another great place to find inexpensive basics. Promod is higher on the fashion food chain than Pimkie, but their clothes are trendy and extremely affordable. If you find something you really love, splurge and buy two- given the level of quality here, there isn't really a guarantee of how long it will last.

Solola - Three locations in Paris

The whimsy behind this brand is perfectly showcased in their logo; a cat playing with a ball of string. Solola is, in its own words, ethnic casual. If you're wondering where Parisian girls get their fabulous patterned skirts (like the ones Juliette Binoche's character Vianne wore so well in the movie Chocolat) this store is the answer. Be sure to stop in if your travels include a stop in on the Côte d'Azur- Solola sundresses are to die for.

Ted Baker - 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois       (M) Saint-Paul

Although Ted Baker is a decidedly English label, the boutique has carved out a happy home for itself in Le Marais. There are two full storeys of the patterned dresses and outlandish ties that the label has become known for... and you're almost better off shopping in France, since the Euro is still weaker than the Pound. If you're lucky enough to be in France during sale time, there are some truly amazing deals to be had.

Vanessa Bruno - Three locations in Paris

This Parisienne designer, a native of the city who still lives in Le Marais, is a favourite among France's- and the world's- most stylish women. She designs most, if not all, of Feist's clothing for her tours and public events. If that kind of prestige seems a bit steep for your budget, check out Mademoiselle Bruno's secondary line, Athé. The collection is sticks to the same lovely, neutral palette and relaxed styles, but is far more wallet friendly than its sister line.

Zadig et Voltaire - Seventeen locations in Paris

For every girl who dreamed of being French and a rock star, there is Zadig et Voltaire. Skulls, studs and wings emblazon their collections. The line is heavy on sweaters (many of them cashmere) with a strong focus on layering. Don't miss the accessories table, though- Z-e-V's handbags not only look beautiful and come in the season's most stylish colours, they are made of the softest, most pliable leather imaginable. The shoes are pretty fantastic, too- there was a pair of glittery blue flats I'm still kicking myself for not buying.

Zara - Twenty locations in Paris

Chances are there's a Zara where you live, so you might be wondering how this store made the list. For one (and for me this is a major one), Zara stores in France are kept clean, whereas every North American Zara I have entered has borne more resemblance to the aftermath of a tornado than a clothing store. For two, the selection is different... it turns out that many of Zara's best items never make it across the Atlantic.

When in Paris, you may also want to stop in at...

Bershka... for inexpensive, trendy pieces.

Camaïeu... for chic, classic basics.

Naf-Naf... for perfectly elegant Parisian styles.

Sinequanone... for edgy workwear.

United Colours of Benetton... for one of those United Colours of Benetton t-shirts that every teenager brings back from Europe.