It's not completely a myth; some Parisian girls do have a certain je ne sais quoi that we North Americans just can't seem to get a handle on. After doing extensive research, I've concluded that stylish girls in Paris simply have a different style than, for example, stylish girls in New York- it's their foreignness that makes them fascinating. The fact that most- if not all- trends start in Europe during Fashion Week probably doesn't hurt them, either.
The longer you spend in Paris, the more you will find that the city's population has a large cross-section of young women, from dumpy to hip-hop to nerdy... and so on. But if you got a little bit weak in the knees when you saw a self-assured Parisienne striding down boulevard Saint-Germain in a black swing coat and sky-high heels, her glossy bob swaying, you're not alone. And if you're dying to know just where that coat came from, read on.
[A note for truly dedicated shoppers: France has two designated sale seasons during the year, generally in January and July. Stores are incredibly crowded during these months, but the deals are unbeatable.]
The most fashionable young mademoiselles in Paris shop at...
Antoine et Lili - 95, quai de Valmy (M) Gare de Paris-Est
You can't miss this candy-coloured shop near Canal Saint-Martin. The pink, yellow and lime store front gives the place a summery, popsicle quality that is entirely out of place in the architecture of Baron Haussmann's neutral, uniform Paris. (There are other locations in Paris, and in the rest of France, but this one is by far the most inspired, taking the line's bright and bold aesthethic to an entirely new level.) Antoine et Lili is inspired by the Middle East. Their collections have names like Yemen and Qat. All of their stunning garments, from hot pink satin dresses to blue suede mid-calf boots, are made in France. You can't shop for an outfit here, unless you make a habit of wearing contrasting colours. But if you want one signature piece to remind you of your time in Paris, Antoine et Lili is the place to find it.
Comptoir des Cotonniers - Multiple locations in Paris
I was fifteen when the ads for this company- all featuring mothers and daughters from France- sucked me in. Their clothing is not inexpensive, but visit around sale time and you might be lucky enough to sneak away with some romantic floral print dresses or chunky knits at a discount.
Diwali - 3, rue Jacques Coeur (M) Bastille
Scarves have recently caught on in North America, but they have always been a French essential, for practical and fashionable reasons. Parisian girls wear scarves year-round; under their coats during the damp winter and over their dresses during the mild summer. (Temperatures in the French capital rarely go below zero or above 20 degrees celcius.) Diwali, named for the Hindu holiday, sells an unparalleled selection of scarves in every fabric and colour you could think of wanting. You can't miss the shop- it's turquoise.
Etam - Multiple locations in Paris
The swing coat that girl on boulevard Saint-Germain was wearing? It could easily have come from Etam. One fundamental of Parisian fashion is mixing expensive and inexpensive garments. After all, if you blow all your money on a pair of Louboutins, you still need to have some clothes to go with them. Luckily, France is full of low-priced chain stores like Etam. If you spend most of your money on one piece, you can just still walk in here and find an entire outfit for a sixth of what you paid for that designer purse. Etam sells everything. Shoes, purses, lingerie, business wear... you name it, it's in stock. In fact, their collections are so extensive that they recently took over one of the seven-storey buildings that once belonged to La Samaritaine. It's a true fashionista's paradise; every floor is full of rack after rack of clothing.
Galéries Lafayette - 40, boulevard Haussmann (M) Chaussée d'Antin-Lafayette
This is a department store of dreams. Cliché as it may seem, Galéries Lafayette truly does sell everything that you could possibly want- and many things you won't know that you want until you discover them at the store. From Chanel Haute Couture to Marc by Marc Jacobs kitsch, this store has it all, and they present it like the art that it is. Be sure to come to the store during sale time, when even designer clothes are subject to markdowns!
H&M - Twelve locations in Paris
Although the giant of German low-end retail has had outposts on North American soil for several years now, H&M in Europe is an entirely different animal. The clothing is largely the same, but the stores are infinitely easier to shop in. Stock is kept tidy and displayed in a logical manner; there are clear distinctions between the trendy, teenage section and the business attire. This makes it infinitely easier to find what you're looking for- or to discover something really wonderful. And the prices really can't be beaten. Stock up on basics like tights and socks; they are a model of the consistency and efficiency that Germans have come to be known for.
Kookai - Nineteen locations in Paris
Simple and sophisticated, Kookai is the very model of the Parisian fashion ethos. Their colours are neutral, their styles classic without being dull, their attention to detail meticulous. The Kookai woman always looks stylish, but never trendy- she is not so easily swayed. Buy an outfit here, put on some red lipstick and few swipes of mascara... even you will mistake yourself for a local.
Mango - Seven locations in Paris
Mango recently began offering online shopping to North American customers, but shopping online is never quite the same as experiencing a store firsthand. Mango denim isn't great, but their accessories are fantastic- think oversized purses and Ray-Ban style sunglasses with reflective lenses. And if you don't love all of your Mango purchases forever, it's not the end of the world... you'll have a hard time finding anything over 100€ in this store; most of their wares come in under 50€.
More stores to come... if you know of any great places to shop in Paris, please share!
30 January 2010
29 January 2010
What's Next for One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags
I didn't want to believe it would ever happen, but the truth is, I'm coming dangerously close to the end of my planned Paris posts. That means I have to decide what city to write about next. But there are too many choices for me to decide on my own. Vote in my poll to help decide what city One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags will explore next!
Get your votes in early - polls close February 8, 2010!
Barcelona, Spain 7 votes
Sofia, Bulgaria 1 vote
Berlin, Germany 2 votes
Bratislava, Slovakia 1 vote
Vienna, Austria 2 votes
Get your votes in early - polls close February 8, 2010!
Barcelona, Spain 7 votes
Sofia, Bulgaria 1 vote
Berlin, Germany 2 votes
Bratislava, Slovakia 1 vote
Vienna, Austria 2 votes
Paris: Where to Shop [I]
In the past few years, Christian Louboutin's red-soled shoes have become synonymous with the epitome of French style. For those travellers who can't spend their entire hotel budget on a pair of heels (no matter how beautiful they are) and those who just don't want the same pair of shoes everyone else has, there are some other fantastic places to shop for shoes in Paris.
When in Paris, shop for shoes at...
Candice - 14, rue de l'Ancien comédie (M) Théâtre de l'Odéon
You won't find any expensive shoes at Candice. There are no brand names. Some of the shoes come without boxes. But in spite of the plethora of manmade fabrics and blatant knockoffs, the French have a distinct advantage when it comes to low-priced merchandise that North Americans never will. The shoes at Candice are all made in Europe. Granted, they are made by underpaid and overworked Europeans, a fact that is evident upon close inspection, but these shoes will surprise you. They are immediately comfortable and shockingly durable. If you really feel like you need a pair of red patent Oxfords, even though you know in your heart of hearts you'll only wear them once, Candice won't disappoint- and the prices are low enough that you can avoid buyer's remorse entirely.
Jonak - Ten locations in Paris
If you've been admiring the motorcycle boots all girls in Paris seem to own in every imaginable neutral shade, head to your nearest Jonak location to find a pair of your own. A veritable institution in Paris, the Nakam family has been making quality footwear since 1964. Buying a pair of their boots is like buying a Parisian souvenir- and it's a much better investment than an Eiffel Tower key chain.
Minelli - Twenty-three locations in Paris
Minelli has a lot in common with North American Aldo. They offer low-to-mid priced basic and trendy footwear- some of it is leather, while some of it falls into the 'other' category. But, being that this is a French business, the store has a decidedly stylish twist. You won't find any fuchsia satin pumps in their window display; all of their shoes come in pleasing neutral tones- black, brown, beige, charcoal...- with the occasional glaring exception. Minelli is fond of purple. And they adore red.
Repetto - 22, rue de la Paix (M) Opéra
The old standby of European ballerinas, this dancewear company recently expanded their line to include fashion footwear and handbags. Money cannot buy you a better pair of ballet flats than the ones Repetto makes, and they come in every colour in the known universe. (My current favourite is BB Star, a sparkly navy blue.) They aren't cheap, but in this case, you get what you pay for- consider your Repettos an investment in the health of your feet. (Or, if you aren't a fan of thinking practically, just consider them really pretty shoes. The strappy salomés are to die for.) The store offers serious service- they will measure your feet to ensure you get the best possible fit.
When in Paris, shop for shoes at...
Candice - 14, rue de l'Ancien comédie (M) Théâtre de l'Odéon
You won't find any expensive shoes at Candice. There are no brand names. Some of the shoes come without boxes. But in spite of the plethora of manmade fabrics and blatant knockoffs, the French have a distinct advantage when it comes to low-priced merchandise that North Americans never will. The shoes at Candice are all made in Europe. Granted, they are made by underpaid and overworked Europeans, a fact that is evident upon close inspection, but these shoes will surprise you. They are immediately comfortable and shockingly durable. If you really feel like you need a pair of red patent Oxfords, even though you know in your heart of hearts you'll only wear them once, Candice won't disappoint- and the prices are low enough that you can avoid buyer's remorse entirely.
Jonak - Ten locations in Paris
If you've been admiring the motorcycle boots all girls in Paris seem to own in every imaginable neutral shade, head to your nearest Jonak location to find a pair of your own. A veritable institution in Paris, the Nakam family has been making quality footwear since 1964. Buying a pair of their boots is like buying a Parisian souvenir- and it's a much better investment than an Eiffel Tower key chain.
Minelli - Twenty-three locations in Paris
Minelli has a lot in common with North American Aldo. They offer low-to-mid priced basic and trendy footwear- some of it is leather, while some of it falls into the 'other' category. But, being that this is a French business, the store has a decidedly stylish twist. You won't find any fuchsia satin pumps in their window display; all of their shoes come in pleasing neutral tones- black, brown, beige, charcoal...- with the occasional glaring exception. Minelli is fond of purple. And they adore red.
Repetto - 22, rue de la Paix (M) Opéra
28 January 2010
Paris: Where to Eat [III]
I've said it before and I'm likely to say it again; Paris is full of wonderful food, which is why I keep writing about it. Here are a few more additions to the must-eat list.
When in Paris, you must also eat at...
Amorino - Twelve locations in Paris
It can probably be said that Amorino is a poor man's Berthillon, but the Italian-style sorbet shop serves fabulous frozen desserts nonetheless. If you have a serious sweet tooth, go for l'inimitabile, a mysterious chocolate blend not found in other shops. My personal favourite, however, is a combination of mango alphonso and limone di Sorrento. There are no scoops of ice cream at Amorino. Order a cone and it will be crowned with a blooming flower of icy wonder.
Maison Berthillon - 29-31, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'île (M) Pont-Marie
Open since 1954, this Parisian establishment makes its own all-natural ice cream and sorbet on-site, the same way they did when the business started more than fifty years ago. Unusual flavours like almond milk, blood orange and café dauphinoix keep patrons coming back for more. Berthillon is also probably one of few places where frozen yule logs are readily available. The shop closes for a portion of the winter, so don't delay- visit as soon as you can. You do not want to miss this ice cream. You may even want to leave yourself time to go back for more.
Patissier/Boulanger/Confiserie - corner of avenue Trudaine at rue Turgot (M) Anvers
If you happen to be taking a stroll in the Montmartre area, stop in at this non-descript little shop. It doesn't have an actual name other than the one listed above, but you'll know it by smell alone. The scent of fresh baked cookies and pastry is constantly wafting out through its vents. Don't try to stay away. It's impossible. Deciding what you want once you're inside with your nose pressed to the glass display cases is even more of a challenge.
As always, suggestions and recommendations are welcome!
When in Paris, you must also eat at...
Amorino - Twelve locations in Paris
It can probably be said that Amorino is a poor man's Berthillon, but the Italian-style sorbet shop serves fabulous frozen desserts nonetheless. If you have a serious sweet tooth, go for l'inimitabile, a mysterious chocolate blend not found in other shops. My personal favourite, however, is a combination of mango alphonso and limone di Sorrento. There are no scoops of ice cream at Amorino. Order a cone and it will be crowned with a blooming flower of icy wonder.
Maison Berthillon - 29-31, rue Saint-Louis-en-l'île (M) Pont-Marie
Open since 1954, this Parisian establishment makes its own all-natural ice cream and sorbet on-site, the same way they did when the business started more than fifty years ago. Unusual flavours like almond milk, blood orange and café dauphinoix keep patrons coming back for more. Berthillon is also probably one of few places where frozen yule logs are readily available. The shop closes for a portion of the winter, so don't delay- visit as soon as you can. You do not want to miss this ice cream. You may even want to leave yourself time to go back for more.
Patissier/Boulanger/Confiserie - corner of avenue Trudaine at rue Turgot (M) Anvers
If you happen to be taking a stroll in the Montmartre area, stop in at this non-descript little shop. It doesn't have an actual name other than the one listed above, but you'll know it by smell alone. The scent of fresh baked cookies and pastry is constantly wafting out through its vents. Don't try to stay away. It's impossible. Deciding what you want once you're inside with your nose pressed to the glass display cases is even more of a challenge.
As always, suggestions and recommendations are welcome!
27 January 2010
Paris: What not to Eat
There is no doubt that the French are among the foremost culinary artists in the world, but I can't simply give them carte blanche. Not all of their food is good. In fact, some of it is down right- gasp!- awful. When you're in France, I would suggest avoiding the following establishments unless you are in true danger of starvation.
When in Paris, do not, under any circumstances, eat at...
Le Boeuf sur le toit - 34, rue du Colisée (M) Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
If you like oysters, this snotty French establishment is the place to be; their oyster bar is extensive and magnificent. The rest of the art deco restaurant, however, is sadly neglected and has begun to decay. What must have been a hot spot twenty years ago now screams of faded glory. The service is deplorable, and the food, which often arrives cold, is little better. To add insult to injury, patrons foot the bill for Le Boeuf's high-rent location; prices are absurdly high- lunch for two can easily cost 100€.
Le Grand Corona - 3, place de l'Alma (M) Alma-Marceau
Much like at Le Boeuf, you pay for location at Le Grand Corona, not the food. Although their croque monsieur and hotdog parisien are as good as you'll find them, nowhere on earth is a glorified grilled cheese sandwich worth 6€, no matter how close the restaurant may be to l'Ile-de-la-Cité. Add a 4€ glass of Fanta to your bill and you've spent your sightseeing money for the day. Walk a few blocks away from the Seine and you can eat for half the price; a quarter of the price, in fact, if you look hard enough.
Restaurant Grill Hippopotamus - Multiple locations around Paris
This would-be American chain is nothing more than a tourist trap. The shiny lighting, homogenous décor and friendly cartoon hippo are designed to attract ignorant North Americans. They work every time. The food is bland, inoffensive and over-priced. If you really want to eat somewhere like Moxie's, stay home.
Quick - Multiple locations around Paris
A fast food chain based in Belgium, Quick makes all the same bad food that McDonald's does, and then slathers some European-style cheese product on top of it. Their food looks singularly unappealing even in advertisements, and tastes even worse. Do not, even in desperation, succumb.
If you've eaten anywhere else in Paris that you think other travellers should avoid, share your experiences in the comments section!
When in Paris, do not, under any circumstances, eat at...
Le Boeuf sur le toit - 34, rue du Colisée (M) Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
If you like oysters, this snotty French establishment is the place to be; their oyster bar is extensive and magnificent. The rest of the art deco restaurant, however, is sadly neglected and has begun to decay. What must have been a hot spot twenty years ago now screams of faded glory. The service is deplorable, and the food, which often arrives cold, is little better. To add insult to injury, patrons foot the bill for Le Boeuf's high-rent location; prices are absurdly high- lunch for two can easily cost 100€.
Le Grand Corona - 3, place de l'Alma (M) Alma-Marceau
Much like at Le Boeuf, you pay for location at Le Grand Corona, not the food. Although their croque monsieur and hotdog parisien are as good as you'll find them, nowhere on earth is a glorified grilled cheese sandwich worth 6€, no matter how close the restaurant may be to l'Ile-de-la-Cité. Add a 4€ glass of Fanta to your bill and you've spent your sightseeing money for the day. Walk a few blocks away from the Seine and you can eat for half the price; a quarter of the price, in fact, if you look hard enough.
Restaurant Grill Hippopotamus - Multiple locations around Paris
This would-be American chain is nothing more than a tourist trap. The shiny lighting, homogenous décor and friendly cartoon hippo are designed to attract ignorant North Americans. They work every time. The food is bland, inoffensive and over-priced. If you really want to eat somewhere like Moxie's, stay home.
Quick - Multiple locations around Paris
A fast food chain based in Belgium, Quick makes all the same bad food that McDonald's does, and then slathers some European-style cheese product on top of it. Their food looks singularly unappealing even in advertisements, and tastes even worse. Do not, even in desperation, succumb.
If you've eaten anywhere else in Paris that you think other travellers should avoid, share your experiences in the comments section!
26 January 2010
Paris: What to Eat
Beyond restaurant fare, France is full of wonderful little treats and nibbles just waiting to be tasted. When in Paris, visit your nearest Monoprix, Champion or Picard to find selections from my list of favourite French snacks.
1. Coca-Cola and Coca-Cola Light
In the event that you're raising your eyebrows, allow me to explain. In France, most Coke is still sold in glass bottles. Glass doesn't break down the same way plastic does, thus the manufacturers of European Coke don't have to add chemicals to prevent the breakdown of their packaging. The difference that this makes to the taste of the product is unfathomable. Coke from a glass bottle is sweet but not syrupy, bubbly, fresh and leaves no aftertaste.
2. Lu Petit écolier - Véritable petit écolier au chocolate au lait
The chocolate topping on these butter biscuits is the real thing, not waxy Chips Ahoy chocolate. As far as store bought cookies are concerned, you can't do any better than these. Even grocery store brand imitations are far superior to any store-bought cookie you can find in North America.
3. Céréale Chokella
If you want to get acquainted with just how important chocolate is to the French diet, start your day with this cereal. The chocolate-hazelnut flavoured cereal is shaped like another staple of the French diet- sliced bread.
4. Nutella
Chances are Nutella is available at your local grocery store. But chances are also pretty good that you roll your eyes every time you pass it on your way to pick-up a jar of peanut butter. You'll be surprised to know that Nutella has only about ten more calories per serving than peanut butter- and although it has more sugar, it contains infinitely less salt. Best of all, it tastes a lot better than peanut butter.
5. Macarons
Even if you don't have a chance to stop at Ladurée, make sure you pop into a bakery somewhere in the city and try the original sandwich cookie. These little delights put the Oreo to shame.
6. Orangina Indien
A surprising and wonderful take on an old favourite, Orangina Indien combines the flavour of the original drink with a hint of sweet grenadine. The results are smashing. Orangina Indien works well on its own, but also makes a fabulous addition to a wine spritzer or pink-hued cocktail.
7. Crêpes
This uniquely French form of simple street food can be sweet or savoury but will inevitably leave you licking your fingers. Flavours include, but are hardly limited to, Nutella, jam, honey and my personal favourite, lemon sugar. Look for sweet gaufres (waffles) and beignes (donuts) at more elaborate street vendors- they will not disappoint.
8. Lion Bar
So popular with locals that it also comes in cereal-form, the mighty Lion bar combines the best parts of all your favourite chocolate bars into one wonderous stick of candy. Wafers, caramel, sweet cream, and rice crisps are all crammed inside chocolate coating. If you're waiting for the metro and there is a vending machine nearby, you would be well advised to pop in a few Euros for one of these chocolate sensations.
9. Haribo Dragibus
The candy with the unpronounceable name is not quite a jelly bean and not quite a gum drop. Most of the flavours in the inviting pink package cannot be precisely identified beyond pink or green. But there is something decidedly wonderful about the ambiguous Dragibu... you'll have to try them yourself to see what I mean.
10. Picard - 6 timbales de sorbet
Even if the frozen dinners at Picard don't tempt you, be sure to persue their dessert section. Their sorbets come in large containers or in individual serving sizes; flavours like mango, raspberry and Williams pear will have you coming back for me. Since these sorbets have no added flavours or preservatives, and are relatively low in calories, you really can't go wrong. You can even have seconds :)
1. Coca-Cola and Coca-Cola Light
In the event that you're raising your eyebrows, allow me to explain. In France, most Coke is still sold in glass bottles. Glass doesn't break down the same way plastic does, thus the manufacturers of European Coke don't have to add chemicals to prevent the breakdown of their packaging. The difference that this makes to the taste of the product is unfathomable. Coke from a glass bottle is sweet but not syrupy, bubbly, fresh and leaves no aftertaste.
2. Lu Petit écolier - Véritable petit écolier au chocolate au lait
The chocolate topping on these butter biscuits is the real thing, not waxy Chips Ahoy chocolate. As far as store bought cookies are concerned, you can't do any better than these. Even grocery store brand imitations are far superior to any store-bought cookie you can find in North America.
3. Céréale Chokella
If you want to get acquainted with just how important chocolate is to the French diet, start your day with this cereal. The chocolate-hazelnut flavoured cereal is shaped like another staple of the French diet- sliced bread.
4. Nutella
Chances are Nutella is available at your local grocery store. But chances are also pretty good that you roll your eyes every time you pass it on your way to pick-up a jar of peanut butter. You'll be surprised to know that Nutella has only about ten more calories per serving than peanut butter- and although it has more sugar, it contains infinitely less salt. Best of all, it tastes a lot better than peanut butter.
5. Macarons
Even if you don't have a chance to stop at Ladurée, make sure you pop into a bakery somewhere in the city and try the original sandwich cookie. These little delights put the Oreo to shame.
6. Orangina Indien
A surprising and wonderful take on an old favourite, Orangina Indien combines the flavour of the original drink with a hint of sweet grenadine. The results are smashing. Orangina Indien works well on its own, but also makes a fabulous addition to a wine spritzer or pink-hued cocktail.
7. Crêpes
This uniquely French form of simple street food can be sweet or savoury but will inevitably leave you licking your fingers. Flavours include, but are hardly limited to, Nutella, jam, honey and my personal favourite, lemon sugar. Look for sweet gaufres (waffles) and beignes (donuts) at more elaborate street vendors- they will not disappoint.
8. Lion Bar
So popular with locals that it also comes in cereal-form, the mighty Lion bar combines the best parts of all your favourite chocolate bars into one wonderous stick of candy. Wafers, caramel, sweet cream, and rice crisps are all crammed inside chocolate coating. If you're waiting for the metro and there is a vending machine nearby, you would be well advised to pop in a few Euros for one of these chocolate sensations.
9. Haribo Dragibus
The candy with the unpronounceable name is not quite a jelly bean and not quite a gum drop. Most of the flavours in the inviting pink package cannot be precisely identified beyond pink or green. But there is something decidedly wonderful about the ambiguous Dragibu... you'll have to try them yourself to see what I mean.
10. Picard - 6 timbales de sorbet
Even if the frozen dinners at Picard don't tempt you, be sure to persue their dessert section. Their sorbets come in large containers or in individual serving sizes; flavours like mango, raspberry and Williams pear will have you coming back for me. Since these sorbets have no added flavours or preservatives, and are relatively low in calories, you really can't go wrong. You can even have seconds :)
23 January 2010
More Ways to Say 'Je t'aime'
Bonjour mes chers!
Just a little note to let you know that One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is now on Facebook. Just click the link or visit facebook.com- you can find us by searching for One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags. Join us there for more travel-related fun and excitement!
As you all know, One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is also on Twitter. Follow @lamontmartraise for updates even more updates!
Bisous!
Just a little note to let you know that One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is now on Facebook. Just click the link or visit facebook.com- you can find us by searching for One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags. Join us there for more travel-related fun and excitement!
As you all know, One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is also on Twitter. Follow @lamontmartraise for updates even more updates!
Bisous!
Paris: Where to Eat [II]
To attempt to confine restaurant recommendations to one post would be ridiculous- there are simply too many wonderful places to eat in Paris. This is part two in my Parisian food series.
When in Paris, you must also eat at...
Cat Café - 13, boulevard de Ménilmontant (M) Philippe-Auguste
A trendy little café in an otherwise gritty, working-class neighbourhood. Located directly across the street from Cimétière Père-Lachaise, the café has relatively little competition in the neighbourhood. Even so, the space is quiet and relaxed, the staff attentive, and the food delicious.
Restaurant Gap - 38, rue de Clignancourt (M) Château Rouge
If you love garlic, this Turkish restaurant is sure to delight. Gap serves the usual kebabs, shawarma and frites alongside less common dishes. I highly recommend anything in their tomato-based yogurt sauce. Portions are generous, and the complimentary bread basket is bottomless.
Restaurant Kifak - 87, rue Ordener (M) Mercadet-Poissoniers
This small falafel shop offers a plethora of pita choices a low prices. You can eat-in, or take your food wrapped in wax paper to go, like many locals do.
Restaurant Maïmouna et Mandela - 48, rue de Clignancourt (M) Château Rouge
This North African restaurant offers dishes you won't find outside of Montmartre. The staff will bend over backwards to be friendly, and daily specials are steal at 5€.
Salon de thé l'Orient d'or - 22, rue Trévise (M) Cadet
Asian restaurants have a lacklustre reputation in France as many offer only fastfood- you choose your meat, and the proprietors microwave it before your eyes. Salon de thé de l'Orient d'or is different. This family establishment serves fresh, delicious and authentic Hunan-style cuisine in a tranquil environment. You won't find better Chinese food anywhere in Paris.
Pomme de Pain - Multiple locations in Paris
Sometimes you need to eat a quick lunch on the run. It happens to all of us. If there isn't a crêpe vendor or sandwich shop nearby, chances are there is a McDonald's or a Quick (a Belgian fastfood chain.) Don't settle for these inferior restaurants. Where there is a McDonald's, there is also a Pomme de Pain. The sandwich shop is a fastfood restaurant, there's no denying it. But, as fastfood goes, Pomme de Pain is the best of a bad lot.
Once again, if you know of any great Parisian restaurants that didn't appear on my list, let me know!
When in Paris, you must also eat at...
Cat Café - 13, boulevard de Ménilmontant (M) Philippe-Auguste
A trendy little café in an otherwise gritty, working-class neighbourhood. Located directly across the street from Cimétière Père-Lachaise, the café has relatively little competition in the neighbourhood. Even so, the space is quiet and relaxed, the staff attentive, and the food delicious.
Restaurant Gap - 38, rue de Clignancourt (M) Château Rouge
If you love garlic, this Turkish restaurant is sure to delight. Gap serves the usual kebabs, shawarma and frites alongside less common dishes. I highly recommend anything in their tomato-based yogurt sauce. Portions are generous, and the complimentary bread basket is bottomless.
Restaurant Kifak - 87, rue Ordener (M) Mercadet-Poissoniers
This small falafel shop offers a plethora of pita choices a low prices. You can eat-in, or take your food wrapped in wax paper to go, like many locals do.
Restaurant Maïmouna et Mandela - 48, rue de Clignancourt (M) Château Rouge
This North African restaurant offers dishes you won't find outside of Montmartre. The staff will bend over backwards to be friendly, and daily specials are steal at 5€.
Salon de thé l'Orient d'or - 22, rue Trévise (M) Cadet
Asian restaurants have a lacklustre reputation in France as many offer only fastfood- you choose your meat, and the proprietors microwave it before your eyes. Salon de thé de l'Orient d'or is different. This family establishment serves fresh, delicious and authentic Hunan-style cuisine in a tranquil environment. You won't find better Chinese food anywhere in Paris.
Pomme de Pain - Multiple locations in Paris
Sometimes you need to eat a quick lunch on the run. It happens to all of us. If there isn't a crêpe vendor or sandwich shop nearby, chances are there is a McDonald's or a Quick (a Belgian fastfood chain.) Don't settle for these inferior restaurants. Where there is a McDonald's, there is also a Pomme de Pain. The sandwich shop is a fastfood restaurant, there's no denying it. But, as fastfood goes, Pomme de Pain is the best of a bad lot.
Once again, if you know of any great Parisian restaurants that didn't appear on my list, let me know!
21 January 2010
Paris: What to Eat [I]
France is known for its cuisine, and that reputation is well-deserved. I can't promise that every restaurant you eat at in Paris will be fabulous- in fact, there are a few I will steer you away from in a subsequent post- but, generally speaking, the French know food. And that statement covers all residents of France, not just natives. The whole world wants to live in Paris. Consequently, the city is brimming with ethnic restaurants that serve mouth-watering fare- with a French twist.
Before I make any recommendations, there are two things that all foreigners should know about French food.
1: The French put sunny-side up eggs and canned tuna in everything. Pizza. Salad. Pasta. You name it, they think it's appropriate to add tuna or an egg. (If not both.) Be aware of this, particularly when you're ordering pizzas.
2: The French don't really do health food. Their entire culinary culture is based on indulgence in moderation- and huge amounts of walking. Eating chocolate is appropriate at any time of day. Most French breakfast cereals are chocolate-flavoured, and no parent blinks before serving Chokella to their children. Everything is cooked with butter. High fat butter. And cream. And lots of cheese. Don't try to fight it. You won't enjoy yourself if you do. And the locals will think you're insane. The three best ways to stand out in Paris are wearing white running shoes, ordering salad as a meal, and skipping dessert.
Now that you have a better idea of what you're up against, I'll share my list of favourite Parisian restaurants with you. These are all places I've eaten personally some I've visited so often as to be recognised by the staff. If you're looking for a good meal in Paris and find yourself overwhelmed by the plethora of choices, any one of these restaurants can satisfy a craving for great food. Even if they aren't close to where you're staying, they are all definitely worth a bit of time on the metro.
When in Paris, you must eat at...
Afghani - 16, rue Paul-Albert (M) Château Rouge
Mouth-watering authentic Afghan cuisine served in cosy space just steps from Basilique Sacré-Coeur. The restaurant opens at 8pm. There are only a few tables, so be sure to arrive for opening if you haven't reserved a table. There are several excellent vegetarian dishes on the menu. And be sure to save room for dessert- the baklawa, with just a hint of lemon and pistachio, is formidable.
Boulangerie Clignancourt - 4, rue de Clignancourt (M) Barbès-Rochechouart
Dozens of perfect baguettes- crisp on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside- are made fresh at this patisserie every morning. They sell for less than a Euro, and can easily feed two people. Their butter croissants are a testament to the wonders of French pastry.
Restaurant les Copains - 17, rue de Trévise (M) Cadet
This quiet restaurant serves generous portions of Kurdish food in a traditional French atmosphere- the low lighting and exposed beam architecture give the place a quaint, romantic feel.
Findi - 24, avenue George V (M) George V
Just off the Champs-Elysées, this Italian restaurant lives up to the perceived glamour of its location. Findi is a feast for all of your senses; from the stunning, villa-style decor, to the attentive service and wonderful food. Boyfriends take note: this is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner. I highly recommend the Ravioli di antara e manzo alla crema di tartufo. (Duck and beef ravioli with truffle cream sauce.) I still have dreams of that dish.
Pizza Gigi - 33, rue de Clignancourt (M) Château Rouge
Delicious thin crust pizzas to eat-in or take away. Unlike most restaurants in Paris- and almost everything else in its own neighbourhood- Gigi is open late. Really late.
Patisserie Ladurée - 62, boulevard Haussmann (M) Havre-Caumartin
This historic bakery, founded in 1862, is now a restaurant with a full menu. I'm sure that they make lovely sandwiches and soups, but it was their macarons (small, round sandwich cookies) that made them famous. Macarons come in 21 flavours, including salted caramel, rose petal and bitter chocolate. Crunchy, chewy and lightly sweet, these little cookies are not to be missed. Lots of bakeries make macarons, but no one makes them quite like Ladurée.
Restaurant Marmaris - 17, rue Saint-Denis (M) Châtelet
If you need good food in a hurry, this is the place to stop. Just off rue de Rivoli, its location is ideal if you're stopping for lunch between tourist attractions. Their paninis and sandwich grecs are generous, not to mention easy to eat on the run.
Picard Surgelés - Multiple locations in Paris
The best way to test the kitchen in your vacation rental apartment is with groceries from Picard. The French have, not surprisingly, brought frozen food to a new level of excellence. Picard sells everything from traditional tartiflette to Lebanese chicken pitas. All you have to do is heat and serve. Be sure to pick up some of their delicious, individual serving sorbets for dessert.
Pitzman - 8, rue Pavée (M) Saint-Paul
Locals and tourists alike line-up out the door and down the street to get a table at this Marais establishment. Famous for their pizza and falafel, la famille Pitzman are a warm, welcoming bunch. If you only visit one restaurant on my list while in Paris, this should be it. The Pizza Chavignol, with crème fraîche and cherry tomatoes, will have you coming back for me. Wash it down with an imported Israeli juice, thick with real fruit.
Restaurant Samrana - 47, rue d'Orsel (M) Anvers
Delicious Indian and Pakistani cuisine. Don't be put off by the website- it would leave me skeptical if I hadn't eaten there, too, but trust me. The patates Bombay, a house recipe, make every trip worthwhile.
Patisserie Sud Tunisien - 17, rue de la Harpe (M) Saint-Michel
Loukoum, or Turkish Delight, is an acquired taste. But if you like it, or simply want to try it, this little shop is the place to go. They sell fresh loukoum here, along with a wonderous assortment of honey- and rosewater-soaked pastries. The shop doesn't look like much from the outside, but don't be fooled. It really is what's on the inside that counts.
Topoly - 36, rue Saint-André des Arts (M) Saint-Michel
Man'ouché is sometimes known as Lebanese pizza, but these flatbread creations, the main dish served at Topoly, deserve their own identity. The grilled flatbread is made fresh in front of you, and filled with Middle Eastern delights- olive oil, sesame seeds, mint, tomatoes, olives and thyme are just a few of the possibilities. There are several restaurants that serve Man'ouché in the general vicinity of Topoly- if you can't get a table here, try another restaurant. Unless you're planning to visit Lebanon on your travels, you may not have another chance to experience fabulous culinary creation.
If you know of other good restaurants in Paris, please don't hesitate to share!
Before I make any recommendations, there are two things that all foreigners should know about French food.
1: The French put sunny-side up eggs and canned tuna in everything. Pizza. Salad. Pasta. You name it, they think it's appropriate to add tuna or an egg. (If not both.) Be aware of this, particularly when you're ordering pizzas.
2: The French don't really do health food. Their entire culinary culture is based on indulgence in moderation- and huge amounts of walking. Eating chocolate is appropriate at any time of day. Most French breakfast cereals are chocolate-flavoured, and no parent blinks before serving Chokella to their children. Everything is cooked with butter. High fat butter. And cream. And lots of cheese. Don't try to fight it. You won't enjoy yourself if you do. And the locals will think you're insane. The three best ways to stand out in Paris are wearing white running shoes, ordering salad as a meal, and skipping dessert.
Now that you have a better idea of what you're up against, I'll share my list of favourite Parisian restaurants with you. These are all places I've eaten personally some I've visited so often as to be recognised by the staff. If you're looking for a good meal in Paris and find yourself overwhelmed by the plethora of choices, any one of these restaurants can satisfy a craving for great food. Even if they aren't close to where you're staying, they are all definitely worth a bit of time on the metro.
When in Paris, you must eat at...
Afghani - 16, rue Paul-Albert (M) Château Rouge
Mouth-watering authentic Afghan cuisine served in cosy space just steps from Basilique Sacré-Coeur. The restaurant opens at 8pm. There are only a few tables, so be sure to arrive for opening if you haven't reserved a table. There are several excellent vegetarian dishes on the menu. And be sure to save room for dessert- the baklawa, with just a hint of lemon and pistachio, is formidable.Boulangerie Clignancourt - 4, rue de Clignancourt (M) Barbès-Rochechouart
Dozens of perfect baguettes- crisp on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside- are made fresh at this patisserie every morning. They sell for less than a Euro, and can easily feed two people. Their butter croissants are a testament to the wonders of French pastry.
Restaurant les Copains - 17, rue de Trévise (M) Cadet
This quiet restaurant serves generous portions of Kurdish food in a traditional French atmosphere- the low lighting and exposed beam architecture give the place a quaint, romantic feel.
Findi - 24, avenue George V (M) George V
Just off the Champs-Elysées, this Italian restaurant lives up to the perceived glamour of its location. Findi is a feast for all of your senses; from the stunning, villa-style decor, to the attentive service and wonderful food. Boyfriends take note: this is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner. I highly recommend the Ravioli di antara e manzo alla crema di tartufo. (Duck and beef ravioli with truffle cream sauce.) I still have dreams of that dish.
Pizza Gigi - 33, rue de Clignancourt (M) Château Rouge
Delicious thin crust pizzas to eat-in or take away. Unlike most restaurants in Paris- and almost everything else in its own neighbourhood- Gigi is open late. Really late.
Patisserie Ladurée - 62, boulevard Haussmann (M) Havre-Caumartin
Restaurant Marmaris - 17, rue Saint-Denis (M) Châtelet
If you need good food in a hurry, this is the place to stop. Just off rue de Rivoli, its location is ideal if you're stopping for lunch between tourist attractions. Their paninis and sandwich grecs are generous, not to mention easy to eat on the run.
Picard Surgelés - Multiple locations in Paris
The best way to test the kitchen in your vacation rental apartment is with groceries from Picard. The French have, not surprisingly, brought frozen food to a new level of excellence. Picard sells everything from traditional tartiflette to Lebanese chicken pitas. All you have to do is heat and serve. Be sure to pick up some of their delicious, individual serving sorbets for dessert.
Pitzman - 8, rue Pavée (M) Saint-Paul
Restaurant Samrana - 47, rue d'Orsel (M) Anvers
Delicious Indian and Pakistani cuisine. Don't be put off by the website- it would leave me skeptical if I hadn't eaten there, too, but trust me. The patates Bombay, a house recipe, make every trip worthwhile.
Patisserie Sud Tunisien - 17, rue de la Harpe (M) Saint-Michel
Loukoum, or Turkish Delight, is an acquired taste. But if you like it, or simply want to try it, this little shop is the place to go. They sell fresh loukoum here, along with a wonderous assortment of honey- and rosewater-soaked pastries. The shop doesn't look like much from the outside, but don't be fooled. It really is what's on the inside that counts.
Topoly - 36, rue Saint-André des Arts (M) Saint-Michel
Man'ouché is sometimes known as Lebanese pizza, but these flatbread creations, the main dish served at Topoly, deserve their own identity. The grilled flatbread is made fresh in front of you, and filled with Middle Eastern delights- olive oil, sesame seeds, mint, tomatoes, olives and thyme are just a few of the possibilities. There are several restaurants that serve Man'ouché in the general vicinity of Topoly- if you can't get a table here, try another restaurant. Unless you're planning to visit Lebanon on your travels, you may not have another chance to experience fabulous culinary creation.
If you know of other good restaurants in Paris, please don't hesitate to share!
20 January 2010
Paris: Where to Stay [Apartments III]
HomeAway, the parent company of VRBO, offers thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, of vacation rental apartments in cities worldwide. Be aware; HomeAway is not a budget rental agency. In fact, most of the rental properties they represent are absurdly expensive. Nor are they a long-term rental agency. The properties listed through their website are intended for holiday use, and not to be lived in. But, if doing a bit of searching doesn't bother you, you can find some decent rental properties through HomeAway.
In the event that extensive searching isn't really your thing, you can refer to my list of HomeAway's Top 5 Paris Budget Rental Properties below.
5: #269076 2eme arrondissement 25m² 1500€/mois
Sleeps 3 Minimum 3-night stay
Amenities include: Washer, cable, telephone, WiFi
(M) Bonne-Nouvelle
4: #171197 2eme arrondissement 20m² $1800US/mois
Sleeps 2 Minimum 1-night stay
Amenities include: Cable, DVD player, internet access
(M) Étienne-Marcel
Fabulous location
3: #257622 4eme arrondissement 30m² $1700US/mois
Sleeps 2 Minimum 5-night stay
Amenities include: Washer, cable, telephone, cell phone, WiFi
(M) Saint-Paul
Beautifully maintained property in an excellent location
2: #168404 15eme arrondissement 60m² $2100US/mois
Sleeps 3 Minimum 3-night stay
Amenities include: Washer, dishwasher, cable, DVD player, piano
(M) Dupleix
Decorated in Parisian style
1: #192242 3eme arrondissement 40m² $2050US/mois
Sleeps 4 Minimum 4-night stay
Amenities include: Washer, dryer, dishwasher, telephone, cable, DVD player, internet access, oven
(M) Arts et Metiers
Spacious and well-maintained with all modern conveniences.
In the event that extensive searching isn't really your thing, you can refer to my list of HomeAway's Top 5 Paris Budget Rental Properties below.
5: #269076 2eme arrondissement 25m² 1500€/mois
Amenities include: Washer, cable, telephone, WiFi
(M) Bonne-Nouvelle
4: #171197 2eme arrondissement 20m² $1800US/mois
Amenities include: Cable, DVD player, internet access
(M) Étienne-Marcel
Fabulous location
3: #257622 4eme arrondissement 30m² $1700US/mois
Amenities include: Washer, cable, telephone, cell phone, WiFi
(M) Saint-Paul
Beautifully maintained property in an excellent location
2: #168404 15eme arrondissement 60m² $2100US/mois
Amenities include: Washer, dishwasher, cable, DVD player, piano
(M) Dupleix
Decorated in Parisian style
1: #192242 3eme arrondissement 40m² $2050US/mois
Amenities include: Washer, dryer, dishwasher, telephone, cable, DVD player, internet access, oven
(M) Arts et Metiers
Spacious and well-maintained with all modern conveniences.
19 January 2010
Paris: Transportation
Paris is an enormous city, but it's easy to navigate, thanks to its amazing transit system. The Reseau Autonome de Transports Parisiens or RATP combines extensive bus service, night buses, a fourteen-line subway system, regional express trains, suburban trains, tramways and train or shuttle service to both of Paris' major airports (Charles-de-Gaulle-Roissy and Orly.)
As a traveller, I would recommend using the subway, or metro, system when possible. Buses are subject to Parisian traffic, which is congested at the best of times (and horrifying at most.) Since the metro runs underground, there are few traffic constraints. The system is also exceptionally easy to navigate. Stations are easily identifiable from street-level and well-signed inside. Trains generally run on schedule, and arrive about 2 minutes apart during peak hours (7:30 am to 8:30 pm) and an average of 5.5 minutes apart the rest of the day. [Note: Trains begin running around 5:30 am and shut down around 1 am. At that point, you're at the mercy of the night buses. Trains run all over the city, and many stop specifically at major tourist attractions like the Louvre. RATP also serves tourist attractions outside the city limits, including the Palais de Versailles and Disney Paris.
Fares are assessed based on your area of travel. RATP divides Paris and its surrounding area into six zones. The majority of the attractions I've talked about previously are in zone 1. Tickets for this zone 1,60€ (or 11,60€ for a book of 10, a savings of 4,40€.) Day passes (called Mobilis) are available for 5,90€, but be careful- these are only a good value if you're planning to visit multiple attractions that are far apart in one day. Many of the attractions in Paris are within walking distance of one another. If you buy a day pass, you also have to make sure to hold onto your ticket all day long.
For travel outside zone 1- both Charles-de-Gaulle-Roissy and Orly airports are outside this zone- you can calculate your fare by using the trip planner function on the RATP website. The site is available in French, English, German, Italian, Spanish, Dutch and Japanese. However, the French site is by far the most extensive, offering traffic updates and an interactive transit map (available in English, French and Spanish via the French website) that includes itinerary planning, neighbourhood maps, station information, accessibility updates and a search tool. Pretty much everything you might possibly need to know about travelling around Paris can be found within that map.
If you need more information on the Paris transit system, you can visit the RATP website.
18 January 2010
Paris: Where to Shop [I]
There is a reason French women look beautiful and youthful in spite of their rabid smoking and daily bread indulgences. The beauty products sold in France are par excellence. The Lancôme that you buy at your local department store is nothing compared to what they sell in France- the ingredients are completely different.
For your shopping convenience, I've compiled a list of my ten French beauty essentials.
French Beauty Essentials
1. Garnier Ultra Doux soin sans rincage à l'huile d'avocat et beurre de karité
This light weight leave-in conditioner makes even the most stubborn, tangled hair smooth, easy to comb and- dare I say it- shiny. You need only a bit, so a bottle lasts ages. (I've had mine for over a year, and I use it weekly.)
2. Yves Saint-Laurent French manicure - Kit 2 stylos
The most user-friendly at-home French manicure kit available. The pen-style brush allows you to draw even white lines on your own nails- and the pale pink top coat dries quickly, so you can have perfectly done nails in the time it takes to fly between Paris and London.
3. Diorskin Airflash brume de teint
Aerosol foundation. Forget blending and blotches. One quick spray in a circular motion in the general direction of your face, and you'll have flawless coverage all day.
4. Guerlain Météorites poudre pour le visage
Blush and all-over-shimmer in one, these gorgeous little pearls will give you a rosy, natural glow that somehow only improves as your day goes on.
5. Yves Saint-Laurent Baby Doll eau de toilette
With notes of gooseberry, wild rose and grenadine, this sweet floral scent is distinct without being overpowering. It can easily transition from day-to-night, and works well as a signature scent.
6. Bourjois ombre à paupières
These petite round eye shadow pots are easy to transport and perfect for everyday-wear. Beige rosé is an essential neutral; it works well as a base shadow, too. Noir précieux works well as powder eyeliner and can be used to create a sultry smoky eyes look.
7. Lancôme mousse radiance
This is the only facial cleanser I will ever use. Light and foamy, it leaves skin smooth, even-toned and blemish-free. There is nothing else like it; beware of imitations.
8. Sephora lait corps
A light body lotion, in fun scents like gooseberry/blackberry, vanilla crême brûlée and lemon meringue, that rubs in easily, leaving skin smooth but not sticky.
9. Lancôme mascara Hypnôse oynx
Forget layering multiple mascaras to get the eyelashes you long for- this mascara is all you need. Your lashes will look visibly longer with every coat, and this version of Hypnôse contains a subtle sparkle for that je ne sais quoi we're all after.
10. Kérastase Shampoo and Conditioner
No matter what type of hair you have, Kérastase has a line of products that will force it to behave the way you've only dreamed it might.
11. Sephora Lait démaquillant
This type of product is only starting to make its way to North American shores, so when you're in France, stock up. Imagine make-up remover that doesn't require any scrubbing. Just rub on the moisturising cream and wipe with a cotton swab. Voilà, make-up free skin ready for cleansing. Best of all, it isn't liquid, so it can take off waterproof mascara.
12. Chanel Lèvres scintillantes - Brillant à lèvres éclat intense
Shiny but not sticky, this lip gloss proves that even after 100 years, Chanel remains an arbiter of all things fabulous.
You can find these products- and lots of other exciting stuff, at Sephora locations in France. Most are also available at French beauty purveyor Marionnaud.
If you know of any other fabulous French beauty finds, be sure to share your knowledge!
For your shopping convenience, I've compiled a list of my ten French beauty essentials.
French Beauty Essentials
1. Garnier Ultra Doux soin sans rincage à l'huile d'avocat et beurre de karité
This light weight leave-in conditioner makes even the most stubborn, tangled hair smooth, easy to comb and- dare I say it- shiny. You need only a bit, so a bottle lasts ages. (I've had mine for over a year, and I use it weekly.)
2. Yves Saint-Laurent French manicure - Kit 2 stylos
The most user-friendly at-home French manicure kit available. The pen-style brush allows you to draw even white lines on your own nails- and the pale pink top coat dries quickly, so you can have perfectly done nails in the time it takes to fly between Paris and London.
3. Diorskin Airflash brume de teint
Aerosol foundation. Forget blending and blotches. One quick spray in a circular motion in the general direction of your face, and you'll have flawless coverage all day.
4. Guerlain Météorites poudre pour le visage
Blush and all-over-shimmer in one, these gorgeous little pearls will give you a rosy, natural glow that somehow only improves as your day goes on.
5. Yves Saint-Laurent Baby Doll eau de toilette
With notes of gooseberry, wild rose and grenadine, this sweet floral scent is distinct without being overpowering. It can easily transition from day-to-night, and works well as a signature scent.
6. Bourjois ombre à paupières
These petite round eye shadow pots are easy to transport and perfect for everyday-wear. Beige rosé is an essential neutral; it works well as a base shadow, too. Noir précieux works well as powder eyeliner and can be used to create a sultry smoky eyes look.
7. Lancôme mousse radiance
This is the only facial cleanser I will ever use. Light and foamy, it leaves skin smooth, even-toned and blemish-free. There is nothing else like it; beware of imitations.
8. Sephora lait corps
A light body lotion, in fun scents like gooseberry/blackberry, vanilla crême brûlée and lemon meringue, that rubs in easily, leaving skin smooth but not sticky.
9. Lancôme mascara Hypnôse oynx
Forget layering multiple mascaras to get the eyelashes you long for- this mascara is all you need. Your lashes will look visibly longer with every coat, and this version of Hypnôse contains a subtle sparkle for that je ne sais quoi we're all after.
10. Kérastase Shampoo and Conditioner
No matter what type of hair you have, Kérastase has a line of products that will force it to behave the way you've only dreamed it might.
11. Sephora Lait démaquillant
This type of product is only starting to make its way to North American shores, so when you're in France, stock up. Imagine make-up remover that doesn't require any scrubbing. Just rub on the moisturising cream and wipe with a cotton swab. Voilà, make-up free skin ready for cleansing. Best of all, it isn't liquid, so it can take off waterproof mascara.
12. Chanel Lèvres scintillantes - Brillant à lèvres éclat intense
Shiny but not sticky, this lip gloss proves that even after 100 years, Chanel remains an arbiter of all things fabulous.
You can find these products- and lots of other exciting stuff, at Sephora locations in France. Most are also available at French beauty purveyor Marionnaud.
If you know of any other fabulous French beauty finds, be sure to share your knowledge!
16 January 2010
Paris: Bringing City Style to your Home
If you've already been to Paris, you know that it's a life-changing experience. But it can also be a style-changing experience. For every girl who has visited the city of light and nearly died over the antique furnishings but gone home heartbroken because she had no way to transport her amazing finds back home, there is a solution. The Paris Apartment Boutique sells everything from armoires and chaise lounges to antique chandeliers and Marie-Antoinette emblazoned stationary.
We can't all live in Paris. It kills me, but we can't. At least now there is a way for us to bring a little bit of Parisian style into our own homes. The Paris Apartment Boutique ships worldwide and accepts Visa, MasterCard and American Express. I highly recommend that you visit the site- the handpicked pieces will leave you drooling. [Note: Although this isn't exactly what one might call a budget website, I firmly believe that the items for sale are worth every penny. If you're really dying for something out of your price range, layaway plans are available.]
If you fall in love with The Paris Apartment Boutique, as I have, you can also follow Claudia's blog. She's constantly finding to-die-for Parisian-style items. If you haven't visited her site, do it. Seriously. I can't stress it enough. Now. Your bank account may not thank me, but you will.
Bisous!
We can't all live in Paris. It kills me, but we can't. At least now there is a way for us to bring a little bit of Parisian style into our own homes. The Paris Apartment Boutique ships worldwide and accepts Visa, MasterCard and American Express. I highly recommend that you visit the site- the handpicked pieces will leave you drooling. [Note: Although this isn't exactly what one might call a budget website, I firmly believe that the items for sale are worth every penny. If you're really dying for something out of your price range, layaway plans are available.]
If you fall in love with The Paris Apartment Boutique, as I have, you can also follow Claudia's blog. She's constantly finding to-die-for Parisian-style items. If you haven't visited her site, do it. Seriously. I can't stress it enough. Now. Your bank account may not thank me, but you will.
Bisous!
15 January 2010
Paris: A Note about Attractions
It may seem that I have written quite extensively about Parisian tourist attractions, but the fact is, there are many I have missed. It may shock some travellers who are familiar with Paris that I left hot spots like the Palais de Versailles and Musée Picasso off my must-see lists.
I could have written about every single tourist attraction in Paris. But I chose not to. (The list would have become impossibly long, anyway.) The sites I wrote about are the ones I that I found to be awe-inspiring on my own visits. And the few that left me bitterly disappointed. I have mixed feelings about certain attractions, and chose to leave those out to avoid confusion. I don't necessarily recommend the Palais de Versailles as a tourist attraction, but I know that many people love it. Similarly, I am not a big fan of Picasso, so an entire museum devoted to his work was a bit much for me. But just because I don't love something doesn't mean others won't.
Paris is full of amazing things that are just waiting to be discovered. As a traveller, it's up to you to find things that you will love. I just hope that I've nudged some of you in the right directions.
I could have written about every single tourist attraction in Paris. But I chose not to. (The list would have become impossibly long, anyway.) The sites I wrote about are the ones I that I found to be awe-inspiring on my own visits. And the few that left me bitterly disappointed. I have mixed feelings about certain attractions, and chose to leave those out to avoid confusion. I don't necessarily recommend the Palais de Versailles as a tourist attraction, but I know that many people love it. Similarly, I am not a big fan of Picasso, so an entire museum devoted to his work was a bit much for me. But just because I don't love something doesn't mean others won't.
Paris is full of amazing things that are just waiting to be discovered. As a traveller, it's up to you to find things that you will love. I just hope that I've nudged some of you in the right directions.
14 January 2010
Paris: What not to See
In Paris as in life, not everything is wonderful. Some Parisian tourist attractions are decidedly less attractive than their Homecoming Queen sisters, who I have devoted my past six posts to. You may not even have heard of some of the sites on this list. Some of them may seem synonymous with the Parisian experience. But trust me, they are all less than spectacular.
If you have a lot of time on your hands, by all means, visit these places. But if you're trying to maximise your time, skip them all-together.
When in Paris, don't feel obligated to visit these attractions. You won't miss anything.
Arènes de Lutèce
What it is... The remains of Paris' Roman amphitheatre, built it the 1st century AD. The arena once sat 15,000.
Why not... Only a portion of the amphitheatre remains. The space is used as a public park, and is far more suited to being a soccer field for children than a tourist attraction. What is left of the Roman megalith can be toured in only a few minutes. And there is little else in the neighbourhood to see.
How to get there... (M) Cardinal-Lemoine
Champs-Élysées/Place de la Concorde
What it is... A long, wide avenue of movie theatres, expensive car dealerships and designer clothing stores. Place de la Concorde, home of the Obelisk of Luxor, is at one end. L'Arc de Triomphe is at the other.
Why not... At one time, this street likely was a glittering wonderland of fashion and celebrity; a place to see and be seen. Today, it is nothing more than a tourist trap. Corporations like Virgin Megastore and McDonald's vie to squeeze every last dollar from the sneaker-wearing masses who, dazed by the sheer foreignness of France and weighed down by their backpacks, are desperate to find something familiar. You will waste an incredible amount of time here, and all you will see are stores you can see almost anywhere else in the city.
How to get there... (M) Concorde
La Défense
What it is... Paris' business district- the only place in the city where modern construction and high-rises are allowed.
Why not... While the neighbourhood is bizarre in contrast with the rest of Paris, it looks very much like any other modern city. If you're from North America, chances are that you're already extremely familiar with high rises and don't really need to see the French take on them.
How to get there... RER D - La Défense
Cimetière Pere-Lachaise
What it is... The largest cemetary in Paris. Established by Napoleon I in 1804, it is home to the remains of many famous people, including (but certainly not limited to) Molière, Balzac, Chopin, Haussmann and, of course, Jim Morrison.
Why not... Long story short: this is a cemetary. A huge cemetary. Granted, if you troll around for hours on the uneven cobblestones, you might see where some relatively interesting people are buried. But, just like regular people, they are all far less interesting in death than they were in life.
How to get there... (M) Père-Lachaise
Forum des Halles
What it is... The former site of Paris' largest public market, Forum les Halles is now a large underground mall.
Why not... Remember when you were a teenagers with a lot of your time on your hands and nowhere to go? Remember how you hung out at the mall? Well, that's what kids in Paris do, too. This place is teeming, particularly on the weekend, with kids who have nothing to do but get into trouble. If you do visit, keep your head down and hold your purse tightly- particularly at the street entrance.
How to get there... (M) Châtelet-les-Halles
Le Musée des égouts
What it is... A museum devoted to Paris' sewer system.
Why not... The museum is actually in the sewer. For 4,20€ you have the privilege of going underground, into the sewer, and read several artistically arranged placards about the Paris sewer system, from its inception to present. There are some dummies dressed up as city workers, too. The whole thing is ridiculous, and wouldn't be worth the money if it were free.
How to get there... (M) Alma-Marceau
If you have a lot of time on your hands, by all means, visit these places. But if you're trying to maximise your time, skip them all-together.
When in Paris, don't feel obligated to visit these attractions. You won't miss anything.
Arènes de Lutèce
What it is... The remains of Paris' Roman amphitheatre, built it the 1st century AD. The arena once sat 15,000.
Why not... Only a portion of the amphitheatre remains. The space is used as a public park, and is far more suited to being a soccer field for children than a tourist attraction. What is left of the Roman megalith can be toured in only a few minutes. And there is little else in the neighbourhood to see.
How to get there... (M) Cardinal-Lemoine
Champs-Élysées/Place de la Concorde
What it is... A long, wide avenue of movie theatres, expensive car dealerships and designer clothing stores. Place de la Concorde, home of the Obelisk of Luxor, is at one end. L'Arc de Triomphe is at the other.
Why not... At one time, this street likely was a glittering wonderland of fashion and celebrity; a place to see and be seen. Today, it is nothing more than a tourist trap. Corporations like Virgin Megastore and McDonald's vie to squeeze every last dollar from the sneaker-wearing masses who, dazed by the sheer foreignness of France and weighed down by their backpacks, are desperate to find something familiar. You will waste an incredible amount of time here, and all you will see are stores you can see almost anywhere else in the city.
How to get there... (M) Concorde
La Défense
What it is... Paris' business district- the only place in the city where modern construction and high-rises are allowed.
Why not... While the neighbourhood is bizarre in contrast with the rest of Paris, it looks very much like any other modern city. If you're from North America, chances are that you're already extremely familiar with high rises and don't really need to see the French take on them.
How to get there... RER D - La Défense
Cimetière Pere-Lachaise
What it is... The largest cemetary in Paris. Established by Napoleon I in 1804, it is home to the remains of many famous people, including (but certainly not limited to) Molière, Balzac, Chopin, Haussmann and, of course, Jim Morrison.
Why not... Long story short: this is a cemetary. A huge cemetary. Granted, if you troll around for hours on the uneven cobblestones, you might see where some relatively interesting people are buried. But, just like regular people, they are all far less interesting in death than they were in life.
How to get there... (M) Père-Lachaise
Forum des Halles
What it is... The former site of Paris' largest public market, Forum les Halles is now a large underground mall.
Why not... Remember when you were a teenagers with a lot of your time on your hands and nowhere to go? Remember how you hung out at the mall? Well, that's what kids in Paris do, too. This place is teeming, particularly on the weekend, with kids who have nothing to do but get into trouble. If you do visit, keep your head down and hold your purse tightly- particularly at the street entrance.
How to get there... (M) Châtelet-les-Halles
Le Musée des égouts
What it is... A museum devoted to Paris' sewer system.
Why not... The museum is actually in the sewer. For 4,20€ you have the privilege of going underground, into the sewer, and read several artistically arranged placards about the Paris sewer system, from its inception to present. There are some dummies dressed up as city workers, too. The whole thing is ridiculous, and wouldn't be worth the money if it were free.
How to get there... (M) Alma-Marceau
13 January 2010
Paris: Directions
Voilà... a map to guide you to all of Paris' best attractions.
[Note: I had hoped to actually insert the map into this post. However, after two days failure, I've simply given up.]
[Note: I had hoped to actually insert the map into this post. However, after two days failure, I've simply given up.]
12 January 2010
Paris: What to See [V]
Paris has infinitely more to offer than l'Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower. The land it sits on has been settled since 4200 BC. Today, the city is home to nearly 12 million people. If you're visiting Paris for the second, third or forty-seventh time- or if you have more than a week to explore the city- be sure to make time for these lesser-known tourist attractions. Granted, none of these places has much celebrity status. But think them in gossip magazine terms- wouldn't you rather read a subtle profile of Rachel McAdams than another splashy tell-all about Lindsey Lohan's love life?
Thought so.
When in Paris, be sure to give these sites your time. They're worth it.
Musée Carnavalet
What it is... The museum of Paris history, housed in Le Marais' celebrated Hôtel Carnavalet and Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. There are 100 rooms devoted to the city, from its origins to the present-day. Highlights included ungrammatical revolutionary posters, some of Marie-Antoinette's jewelry and antique furniture rescued from long-demolished homes. If you love Paris, you will love Musée Carnavalet.
Entrance fee... Permanent collections are free.
How to get there... (M) Saint-Paul
Institut du Monde Arabe
What it is... An Arab cultural museum, spear-headed by Jean-François Mitterand and supported by twenty-eight arab nations, including Palestine. Housed in a magnificent (if unusually modern by Parisian standards) seven-storey building, the centre, which opened in 1987, includes a museum, library and rooftop café. The museum, which begins on the seventh floor and leads down to the fourth, is an eye-opening look at Arab culture throughout history. The centre also puts on fascinating temporary exhibits; Arts d'Islam, Chefs-d'ouevre de la collection Khalili will run until March 14, 2010.
Entrance fee... 4€ for the museum; 8,50€ for temporary exhibits (6,50€ for those under 26.)
How to get there... (M) Jussieu
Petit Palais
What it is... The Grand Palais' little sister, this smaller exhibition hall is home to the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la ville de Paris. While the collection isn't spectacular, the building itself is- as is the almost tropical courtyard, which, although it is an open-air space at the centre of Paris' busiest district, is completely tranquil.
Entrance fee... Permanent collections are free.
How to get there... (M) Concorde
Musée de Cluny
What it is... The French National Medieval Museum, home of the famous 'The Lady and the Unicorn' tapestry series. Collections are displayed in l'Hôtel de Cluny, a medieval abbey, which is attached to Paris' last remaining Roman thermal baths. The admission price allows access to both. [Note: The baths were closed for refurbishment in early 2009, but should now be open to the public.]
Entrance fee... 8€; free on the first Sunday of the month. (But don't go then- everyone else in Paris does.)
How to get there... (M) Cluny-La Sorbonne
Galéries Lafayette
What it is... One of Paris' largest department stores, Galéries Lafayette opened in 1893. The ten storey flagship store, with its glass-domed ceiling and Art Nouveau decor, is simply worth seeing to marvel at the architecture- never mind the fantastic shopping.
Entrance fee... Free. But you'll probably end up buying a thing or two.
How to get there... (M) Chaussée-d'Antin Lafayette
Le Marais
What it is... Originally a cleared marsh outside the Paris city walls, this district, which spans Paris' 3rd and 4th arrondissements, began as an aristocratic ward. It fell into decline when the royal family moved to Versailles, but was revived in the 19th century as a Jewish neighbourhood. Heavily targeted during World War II, le Marais declined further until it became a protected district in 1969. Today it is once again home to much of Paris' Jewish population, and also to some of Paris' most fashionable boutiques. A barrage of artistically rendered graffiti, commemorative plaques, pre-Haussmanian architecture and original store fronts make this the most interesting Parisian neighbourhood to tour on foot. It is not to be missed.
How to get there... (M) Hôtel-de-Ville or (M) Saint-Paul or (M) Bastille
Thought so.
When in Paris, be sure to give these sites your time. They're worth it.
Musée Carnavalet
Entrance fee... Permanent collections are free.
How to get there... (M) Saint-Paul
Institut du Monde Arabe
What it is... An Arab cultural museum, spear-headed by Jean-François Mitterand and supported by twenty-eight arab nations, including Palestine. Housed in a magnificent (if unusually modern by Parisian standards) seven-storey building, the centre, which opened in 1987, includes a museum, library and rooftop café. The museum, which begins on the seventh floor and leads down to the fourth, is an eye-opening look at Arab culture throughout history. The centre also puts on fascinating temporary exhibits; Arts d'Islam, Chefs-d'ouevre de la collection Khalili will run until March 14, 2010.
Entrance fee... 4€ for the museum; 8,50€ for temporary exhibits (6,50€ for those under 26.)
How to get there... (M) Jussieu
Petit Palais
What it is... The Grand Palais' little sister, this smaller exhibition hall is home to the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la ville de Paris. While the collection isn't spectacular, the building itself is- as is the almost tropical courtyard, which, although it is an open-air space at the centre of Paris' busiest district, is completely tranquil.
Entrance fee... Permanent collections are free.
How to get there... (M) Concorde
Musée de Cluny
What it is... The French National Medieval Museum, home of the famous 'The Lady and the Unicorn' tapestry series. Collections are displayed in l'Hôtel de Cluny, a medieval abbey, which is attached to Paris' last remaining Roman thermal baths. The admission price allows access to both. [Note: The baths were closed for refurbishment in early 2009, but should now be open to the public.]
Entrance fee... 8€; free on the first Sunday of the month. (But don't go then- everyone else in Paris does.)
How to get there... (M) Cluny-La Sorbonne
Galéries Lafayette
Entrance fee... Free. But you'll probably end up buying a thing or two.
How to get there... (M) Chaussée-d'Antin Lafayette
Le Marais
What it is... Originally a cleared marsh outside the Paris city walls, this district, which spans Paris' 3rd and 4th arrondissements, began as an aristocratic ward. It fell into decline when the royal family moved to Versailles, but was revived in the 19th century as a Jewish neighbourhood. Heavily targeted during World War II, le Marais declined further until it became a protected district in 1969. Today it is once again home to much of Paris' Jewish population, and also to some of Paris' most fashionable boutiques. A barrage of artistically rendered graffiti, commemorative plaques, pre-Haussmanian architecture and original store fronts make this the most interesting Parisian neighbourhood to tour on foot. It is not to be missed.
How to get there... (M) Hôtel-de-Ville or (M) Saint-Paul or (M) Bastille
09 January 2010
Paris: What to See [IV]
While in Paris, plan to spend one day walking. Just walking. The best way to experience the city with all five senses is spend time outdoors- hearing its car horns; smelling its bakeries and its sewers; peering longingly at Chanel dresses in its designer shop windows... So lace up your most practical pair of shoes and get going.
The following is a list of sites that, if you happen to pass by them on your walking tour, are definitely worth a second look. (I've included metro stops simply because you have to start somewhere.)
When in Paris, be sure to stop and gawk at...
l'Hôtel-de-Ville
What it is... Paris City Hall. It's been on the same site since 1357. The current building, reconstructed after a fire in 1871, is magnificent- particularly at night.
How to get there... (M) Hôtel-de-Ville
Place Vendôme
What it is... An elaborate square where Napoleon I erected a column to commemorate his own greatness after his victory at Austerlitz. Although the idea behind it is laughable, it is impressive.
How to get there... (M) Tuileries
L'Église de la Madeleine
What it is... Modelled after a well-preserved Roman temple in Nîmes, this church is the site of Paris' most fashionable weddings.
How to get there... (M) Madeleine
Places des Vosges
What it is... The oldest planned square in Paris, dating from 1605. Several famous Parisians have made this their home, including Victor Hugo (there is a museum dedicated to his memory inside), Cardinal Richelieu and Alphonse Daudet.
How to get there... (M) Bastille
Tour Saint-Jacques
What it is... The remains of Église Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie, which was built in 1505 and demolished in 1797. In the nineteenth century, it was used as a shot tower. The city of Paris bought the tower in 1836. It was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998.
How to get there... (M) Châtelet
Église Saint-Germain-des-Près
What it is... The burial site of France's Merovingian Kings, as well as philosopher René Descartes. You can go into the church and take a look around at no charge- as long as you don't take pictures.
How to get there... (M) Saint-Germain-des-Près
Grand Palais
What it is... A large hall built for the 1900 Paris Exhibition. It now houses an art gallery and a science museum. The hall often plays host to Chanel, which holds many of its couture shows on-site.
How to get there... (M) Concorde
La Samaritaine
What it is... An eleven-storey, 48000m² art deco department store housed that first opened as a small boutique in 1869. Sadly, it was purchased by LMVH and has been closed for renovations since 2005. It will reopen in 2011 at the earliest.
How to get there... (M) Pont-Neuf
Place de la République
What it is... The former site of one of Paris' medieval walls, now home to the Château-d'Eau statue.
How to get there... (M) République
Fontaine des Innocents
What it is... Paris' oldest monumental fountain, originally titled the Fountain of Nymphs. Construction began in 1547. If you visit in the winter, make sure to walk by... the city sometimes leaves the water turned on even in freezing temperatures, and the results are beautiful.
How to get there... (M) Les Halles
l'Arc du Carrousel
What it is... A triumphal arch at Place du Carrousel. It is less celebrated than l'Arc de Triomphe (possibly because it was always intended to be an arch- l'Arc de Triomphe began life as a giant elephant.) but, in many ways, prettier.
How to get there... (M) Tuileries
The following is a list of sites that, if you happen to pass by them on your walking tour, are definitely worth a second look. (I've included metro stops simply because you have to start somewhere.)
When in Paris, be sure to stop and gawk at...
l'Hôtel-de-Ville
What it is... Paris City Hall. It's been on the same site since 1357. The current building, reconstructed after a fire in 1871, is magnificent- particularly at night.
How to get there... (M) Hôtel-de-Ville
Place Vendôme
What it is... An elaborate square where Napoleon I erected a column to commemorate his own greatness after his victory at Austerlitz. Although the idea behind it is laughable, it is impressive.
How to get there... (M) Tuileries
L'Église de la Madeleine
What it is... Modelled after a well-preserved Roman temple in Nîmes, this church is the site of Paris' most fashionable weddings.
How to get there... (M) Madeleine
Places des Vosges
What it is... The oldest planned square in Paris, dating from 1605. Several famous Parisians have made this their home, including Victor Hugo (there is a museum dedicated to his memory inside), Cardinal Richelieu and Alphonse Daudet.
How to get there... (M) Bastille
Tour Saint-Jacques
What it is... The remains of Église Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie, which was built in 1505 and demolished in 1797. In the nineteenth century, it was used as a shot tower. The city of Paris bought the tower in 1836. It was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998.
How to get there... (M) Châtelet
Église Saint-Germain-des-Près
What it is... The burial site of France's Merovingian Kings, as well as philosopher René Descartes. You can go into the church and take a look around at no charge- as long as you don't take pictures.
How to get there... (M) Saint-Germain-des-Près
Grand Palais
What it is... A large hall built for the 1900 Paris Exhibition. It now houses an art gallery and a science museum. The hall often plays host to Chanel, which holds many of its couture shows on-site.
How to get there... (M) Concorde
La Samaritaine
How to get there... (M) Pont-Neuf
Place de la République
What it is... The former site of one of Paris' medieval walls, now home to the Château-d'Eau statue.
How to get there... (M) République
Fontaine des Innocents
How to get there... (M) Les Halles
l'Arc du Carrousel
What it is... A triumphal arch at Place du Carrousel. It is less celebrated than l'Arc de Triomphe (possibly because it was always intended to be an arch- l'Arc de Triomphe began life as a giant elephant.) but, in many ways, prettier.
How to get there... (M) Tuileries
08 January 2010
Paris: What to See [III]
Budget travellers and rushed travellers, take note: the city of Paris and Disney World have something in common. They are both- it pains me to say it- tourist traps. The French will happily charge you a steep entry fee to see the ill-lit innards of their national treasures, all the while scoffing about les maudit touristes. Do not be taken in. For those who don't have time or money to waste, the following is a list of monuments that are best seen from the outside.
Remember, the main attraction at a monument is the monument. Not the little museum about how it was built.
When in Paris, observe these marvelous monuments from outside...
l'Arc de Triomphe
Entry fee: 7€
What it gets you: The right to climb a narrow staircase up to a dank museum. There is a view, but Basilique Sacré-Coeur offers a better one. And it's free.
How to get there: (M) Charles-de-Gaulle Étoile
Palais Garnier (Opéra)
Entry fee: 9€; 5€ if you're under 25
What it gets you: The chance to walk around inside the opera house, rather than just outside.
How to get there: (M) Opéra
Centre Pompidou
Entry fee: 3-12€
What it gets you: The 3€ will allow you access to the sixth floor for yet another panoramic view of Paris. If modern art interests you, by all means visit the museum. But the most interesting thing, really, is the building.
How to get there: (M) Rambuteau
Panthéon
Entry fee: 8€
What it gets you: Access to the crypt and dome. Again, there is a view. There are some famous French people buried in the crypt, most notably Victor Hugo and Marie Curie.
How to get there: (M) Maubert-Mutualité
Sainte-Chapelle
Entry fee: 8€
What it gets you: Sainte-Chapelle has some lovely stained glass. But since it's a church, no pictures are allowed. And, after a cursory tour around the perimeter, you've pretty much seen it all.
How to get there: (M) Cité
La Conciergerie
Entry fee: 7€
What it gets you: The architecture is relatively impressive, but similar to the architecture in many other monuments around Paris. The site was used as a prison, and held Marie-Antoinette during the revolution. Unfortunately, the architecture is about all that is currently on display. Remember, the outer architecture can be examined for free.
How to get there: (M) Cité
Remember, the main attraction at a monument is the monument. Not the little museum about how it was built.
When in Paris, observe these marvelous monuments from outside...
l'Arc de Triomphe
Entry fee: 7€
What it gets you: The right to climb a narrow staircase up to a dank museum. There is a view, but Basilique Sacré-Coeur offers a better one. And it's free.
How to get there: (M) Charles-de-Gaulle Étoile
Palais Garnier (Opéra)
Entry fee: 9€; 5€ if you're under 25
What it gets you: The chance to walk around inside the opera house, rather than just outside.
How to get there: (M) Opéra
Centre Pompidou
Entry fee: 3-12€
What it gets you: The 3€ will allow you access to the sixth floor for yet another panoramic view of Paris. If modern art interests you, by all means visit the museum. But the most interesting thing, really, is the building.
How to get there: (M) Rambuteau
Panthéon
Entry fee: 8€
What it gets you: Access to the crypt and dome. Again, there is a view. There are some famous French people buried in the crypt, most notably Victor Hugo and Marie Curie.
How to get there: (M) Maubert-Mutualité
Sainte-Chapelle
Entry fee: 8€
What it gets you: Sainte-Chapelle has some lovely stained glass. But since it's a church, no pictures are allowed. And, after a cursory tour around the perimeter, you've pretty much seen it all.
How to get there: (M) Cité
La Conciergerie
Entry fee: 7€
What it gets you: The architecture is relatively impressive, but similar to the architecture in many other monuments around Paris. The site was used as a prison, and held Marie-Antoinette during the revolution. Unfortunately, the architecture is about all that is currently on display. Remember, the outer architecture can be examined for free.
How to get there: (M) Cité
07 January 2010
Paris: What to See [II]
It's sad to say but, I'm a practical-minded person, so here are the facts: when in Paris, you most likely won't have unlimited time at your disposal. You want to make the best possible use of your time. You want to see memorable sites. And you don't want to be disappointed.
In addition to the four attractions I listed yesterday, there are two more popular tourist attractions that, in my opinion, are not to be missed- no matter how pressed for time you are.
When in Paris, you must not miss...
Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
Why?
A white jewel atop the crown of Montmartre, this impressive cathedral was built in 1873. The winding staircases that lead up to it will leave all but seasoned athletes winded, but it's worth taking them- you're climbing a sacred hill, a site of religious worship that predates recorded history. The pagan Gauls performed ceremonies here; Romans made dedications to Mercury. Christians laid claim to the spot in the second century, and it has been a Catholic holy place ever since. The view from the top of the hill is everything that the view from the Eiffel Tower is not- immediate, romantic and utterly Parisian. Make sure to take a wander through the winding streets behind the cathedral, too. Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain was shot in and around the area. You just might see a café you recognise.
What to avoid...
Don't bother taking the funicular. If you go on a busy day, the line-up will be stupidly long. Taking the stairs is part of the experience, anyway. If the weather is nice, the area surrounding the basilica can get very busy and crowded- this is a gathering place for people from the neighbourhood as well as a tourist attraction. Be aware of who is around you. Hold your belongings tightly. Give any peddlers- whether they're selling plastic Eiffel Tower key chains or offering you a Senegalese bracelet, but especially if they are offering you a bracelet- a wide berth. Sacré-Coeur is notorious for pickpockets. I lived a few blocks away from the cathedral the last time I was in Paris and can say from personal experience that there are smooth-talkers on site almost twenty-fours hours a day. But as long as you're alert, you'll be fine.
How to get there...
(M) Anvers
Hôtel des Invalides
Why?
Napoleon and his tragically fated son, Joseph, are buried in the church on-site, Église Saint-Louis-des-Invalides. Alongside them are many heroes of the French military. It doesn't matter whether burial sites are of general interest to you. This is the most bizarre and opulent shrine you will ever chance to witness. The architecture alone makes the trip worthwhile. The complex surrounding the church was built by Louis XIV in 1670 as a military hospital. It still houses some clinics for veterans. However, the majority of the space is used to house La Musée de l'Armée, an enormous collection of French (and foreign) military memorabilia from ancient times to present. The World War I and II exhibits are fascinating, particularly the old propaganda pamphlets. See if you can find an anti-Canada leaflet. (I did; it's there.) Admission is 8,5€. A leisurely tour of the exhibits can easily take an entire day, and will intrigue even the most devoted pacifist. (Note: There is currently an Afghanistan 2001-2009 exhibit on display. This will run only until February 26, 2010.)
What to avoid...
The Hôtel des Invalides is a positively enormous complex that monopolises several city blocks in an otherwise relatively quiet neighbourhood. There is little, if any, food available on-site and no restaurants in the immediate vicinity. If you plan to spend the day here, make sure that you eat a big breakfast. In all likelihood, you won't have an opportunity to eat again until you leave. (Trust me. I learned this the hard way. A Kinder bar is not enough sustenance for six hours.)
How to get there...
(M) Invalides
In addition to the four attractions I listed yesterday, there are two more popular tourist attractions that, in my opinion, are not to be missed- no matter how pressed for time you are.
When in Paris, you must not miss...
Basilique du Sacré-Coeur
Why?
A white jewel atop the crown of Montmartre, this impressive cathedral was built in 1873. The winding staircases that lead up to it will leave all but seasoned athletes winded, but it's worth taking them- you're climbing a sacred hill, a site of religious worship that predates recorded history. The pagan Gauls performed ceremonies here; Romans made dedications to Mercury. Christians laid claim to the spot in the second century, and it has been a Catholic holy place ever since. The view from the top of the hill is everything that the view from the Eiffel Tower is not- immediate, romantic and utterly Parisian. Make sure to take a wander through the winding streets behind the cathedral, too. Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain was shot in and around the area. You just might see a café you recognise.
What to avoid...
Don't bother taking the funicular. If you go on a busy day, the line-up will be stupidly long. Taking the stairs is part of the experience, anyway. If the weather is nice, the area surrounding the basilica can get very busy and crowded- this is a gathering place for people from the neighbourhood as well as a tourist attraction. Be aware of who is around you. Hold your belongings tightly. Give any peddlers- whether they're selling plastic Eiffel Tower key chains or offering you a Senegalese bracelet, but especially if they are offering you a bracelet- a wide berth. Sacré-Coeur is notorious for pickpockets. I lived a few blocks away from the cathedral the last time I was in Paris and can say from personal experience that there are smooth-talkers on site almost twenty-fours hours a day. But as long as you're alert, you'll be fine.
How to get there...
(M) Anvers
Hôtel des Invalides
Why?
Napoleon and his tragically fated son, Joseph, are buried in the church on-site, Église Saint-Louis-des-Invalides. Alongside them are many heroes of the French military. It doesn't matter whether burial sites are of general interest to you. This is the most bizarre and opulent shrine you will ever chance to witness. The architecture alone makes the trip worthwhile. The complex surrounding the church was built by Louis XIV in 1670 as a military hospital. It still houses some clinics for veterans. However, the majority of the space is used to house La Musée de l'Armée, an enormous collection of French (and foreign) military memorabilia from ancient times to present. The World War I and II exhibits are fascinating, particularly the old propaganda pamphlets. See if you can find an anti-Canada leaflet. (I did; it's there.) Admission is 8,5€. A leisurely tour of the exhibits can easily take an entire day, and will intrigue even the most devoted pacifist. (Note: There is currently an Afghanistan 2001-2009 exhibit on display. This will run only until February 26, 2010.)
What to avoid...
The Hôtel des Invalides is a positively enormous complex that monopolises several city blocks in an otherwise relatively quiet neighbourhood. There is little, if any, food available on-site and no restaurants in the immediate vicinity. If you plan to spend the day here, make sure that you eat a big breakfast. In all likelihood, you won't have an opportunity to eat again until you leave. (Trust me. I learned this the hard way. A Kinder bar is not enough sustenance for six hours.)
How to get there...
(M) Invalides
06 January 2010
Paris: What to See [I]
Visiting Paris, especially for the first time, can be daunting. Many people around you have likely visited, and are only too happy to offer unsolicited opinions about what you should see and do. It's easy to get overwhelmed. But don't worry- I'll give you all the details on what to see, as well as what you might want to avoid. And, best of all, unlike Aunt Jane, I won't be disappointed if you come home without having stopped in at Le Musée de la vie romantique.
Note: This entry will deal specifically with major attractions. Check back over the next week to find out about lesser-known things to see and do. There are some real hidden gems I can't wait to tell you about!
When in Paris, you must not miss...
La Tour Eiffel
Why?
Gustave Eiffel's 1889 masterwork, originally reviled by the French, is not much more well-liked by Parisians today. But there is something majestic the iron behemoth which, in the 121 years since its construction, has become one of the most recognised monuments in the world. You cannot go to Paris, especially for the first time, and miss seeing this monument up close. It will be crowded. The gun-toting soldiers casing the perimeter of the monument will perturb you. The ducks on the lawn will look at you pleadingly and stretch toward you, hoping for a handout. The tower, in all likelihood, will not be nearly as romantic or exciting as you have been lead to believe. But the important thing is to be able to say you've been there. So don't skip it.
What to avoid...
It costs 13€ to ride a cattlecar-like elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower. (That is approximately the same price as four really good paninis from street vendors.) The line for tickets is never anything less than extremely long. When you do actually reach the top, you will find, much to your dismay, that you can see further than you can out of your hotel room window, but that what you are looking at isn't particularly interesting. Paris looks better up-close than it does from above. And forget having a drink or snack at the top- that will set you back at least another 13€! Save yourself the waiting at the trouble by admiring the tower from ground-level. That way, it's free. (If you want to get a good picture of the entire structure, I suggest walking down the Champs de Mars, towards L'École Militaire. The view is largely unobstructed.)
How to get there...
(RER) Champs de Mars Tour Eiffel or (M) Bir-Hakeim
Le Musée du Louvre
Why?
Housed in the Palais du Louvre, a structure that began its life as a fortress in the 12th century under Philip II, this museum is one of the largest in the world. Beyond the Mona Lisa- which, I hate to be a spoil-sport, really is totally uninspiring in person- the Louvre, opened in 1793, houses a formidable collection of art. Da Vincis, Rembrandts, Raphaels and Michelangelos are all housed here. Antiquities from almost every fallen civilisation of any significance can also be found in the palace. The 9.5€ entrance fee is worth every centime. Absolutely not to be missed are the Napoleon Apartments, a relatively new addition to the Palais du Louvre where Napoleon III lived with his family. The red brocade opulence is everything you would expect from a French palace. Before you leave, make a trip down to the crypt, where you can still see remnants of the original Louvre fortress.
What to avoid...
Absolutely do not, under any circumstances, visit the Louvre on Saturday. The world's most-visited museum is most-visited on this day of the week, and you'll be lucky to see anything through the crowds of plodding tourists with constantly flashing cellphone cameras. Aside from tiresome tourists, if I had limited time to spend at the Louvre, I would only take a cursory glance through the Richelieu and Denon wings of the museum. There are 6,000 paintings between them, all dating from prior to 1849. After a while, the various depictions of baby Jesus as a chubby white cherubim all start to look the same.
How to get there...
(M) Palais-Royale Musée du Louvre or (M) Louvre Rivoli
Notre-Dame de Paris
Why?
This gothic-style cathedral, which took nearly two hundred years to complete, is as beautiful in person as it is on postcards. desecrated by radicals during the French revolution, it was narrowly saved from destruction (and subsequently restored) by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. Be sure to take a look at the back-end of the church- the flying buttresses that support the choir and nave will undoubtedly give you a renewed appreciation of the beauty that can be found in geometrics. On the grounds of the cathedral is Paris' Point Zero, the point from which all distances in France are measured. It is said that if you stand on that spot, its force will bring you back to Paris again and again.
What to avoid...
Hold your purse tightly. Gypsies swarm the Cathedral, preying on distracted tourists- particularly those who speak English. They run several scams from this site, working in groups, so be aware. Also, be sure to avoid eating on Ile-de-la-Cité. Prices are highly inflated and most of the food for sale isn't fresh. Better food, at lower prices, can be found only a few blocks away near Place Saint-Michel. Or, if you're going the other way, near Les Halles.
How to get there...
(M) Saint-Michel Notre-Dame
Le Musée d'Orsay
Why?
This former train station, built in 1898 and converted in 1986, is home to paintings dating from 1849 to present which were formerly housed at the Louvre. The collection included 43 Degas, 56 Cézanne, 86 Monet and 24 van Gogh (mostly notably Starry Night over the Rhône). The Musée d'Orsay's collection is distinct from the Louvre's in that, in addition to painting, sculpture, and architecture, it includes photography (and, of all things, a significant number of shadow puppets.) But even if none of those things interest you, I would highly recommend visiting the museum simply to stare up at the magnificent vaulted glass ceilings and iconic wall clock.
What to avoid...
I can think of little to put in this category. The Musée d'Orsay is a thinking-tourist's attraction. I have never seen it unreasonably crowded, and considering its magnificent art collection, 9.5€ entry fee is a steal. [Even better, the museum offers a 7€ concession fee for 18- to 25-year-olds who are not citizens or long-term residents of the EU; the same concession is offered to all-comers after 4:15 pm, and the museum is open until 9:45 pm on Thursdays.] Where the museum makes a real leap, though, is in it's café which, although over-priced, serves real, fresh, made-to-order food.
How to get there...
(RER) Musée d'Orsay or (M) Assemblée Nationale
More on what to see in Paris is still to come!
Note: This entry will deal specifically with major attractions. Check back over the next week to find out about lesser-known things to see and do. There are some real hidden gems I can't wait to tell you about!
When in Paris, you must not miss...
La Tour Eiffel
Why?
Gustave Eiffel's 1889 masterwork, originally reviled by the French, is not much more well-liked by Parisians today. But there is something majestic the iron behemoth which, in the 121 years since its construction, has become one of the most recognised monuments in the world. You cannot go to Paris, especially for the first time, and miss seeing this monument up close. It will be crowded. The gun-toting soldiers casing the perimeter of the monument will perturb you. The ducks on the lawn will look at you pleadingly and stretch toward you, hoping for a handout. The tower, in all likelihood, will not be nearly as romantic or exciting as you have been lead to believe. But the important thing is to be able to say you've been there. So don't skip it.
What to avoid...
It costs 13€ to ride a cattlecar-like elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower. (That is approximately the same price as four really good paninis from street vendors.) The line for tickets is never anything less than extremely long. When you do actually reach the top, you will find, much to your dismay, that you can see further than you can out of your hotel room window, but that what you are looking at isn't particularly interesting. Paris looks better up-close than it does from above. And forget having a drink or snack at the top- that will set you back at least another 13€! Save yourself the waiting at the trouble by admiring the tower from ground-level. That way, it's free. (If you want to get a good picture of the entire structure, I suggest walking down the Champs de Mars, towards L'École Militaire. The view is largely unobstructed.)
How to get there...
(RER) Champs de Mars Tour Eiffel or (M) Bir-Hakeim
Le Musée du Louvre
Why?
Housed in the Palais du Louvre, a structure that began its life as a fortress in the 12th century under Philip II, this museum is one of the largest in the world. Beyond the Mona Lisa- which, I hate to be a spoil-sport, really is totally uninspiring in person- the Louvre, opened in 1793, houses a formidable collection of art. Da Vincis, Rembrandts, Raphaels and Michelangelos are all housed here. Antiquities from almost every fallen civilisation of any significance can also be found in the palace. The 9.5€ entrance fee is worth every centime. Absolutely not to be missed are the Napoleon Apartments, a relatively new addition to the Palais du Louvre where Napoleon III lived with his family. The red brocade opulence is everything you would expect from a French palace. Before you leave, make a trip down to the crypt, where you can still see remnants of the original Louvre fortress.
What to avoid...
Absolutely do not, under any circumstances, visit the Louvre on Saturday. The world's most-visited museum is most-visited on this day of the week, and you'll be lucky to see anything through the crowds of plodding tourists with constantly flashing cellphone cameras. Aside from tiresome tourists, if I had limited time to spend at the Louvre, I would only take a cursory glance through the Richelieu and Denon wings of the museum. There are 6,000 paintings between them, all dating from prior to 1849. After a while, the various depictions of baby Jesus as a chubby white cherubim all start to look the same.
How to get there...
(M) Palais-Royale Musée du Louvre or (M) Louvre Rivoli
Notre-Dame de Paris
Why?
This gothic-style cathedral, which took nearly two hundred years to complete, is as beautiful in person as it is on postcards. desecrated by radicals during the French revolution, it was narrowly saved from destruction (and subsequently restored) by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. Be sure to take a look at the back-end of the church- the flying buttresses that support the choir and nave will undoubtedly give you a renewed appreciation of the beauty that can be found in geometrics. On the grounds of the cathedral is Paris' Point Zero, the point from which all distances in France are measured. It is said that if you stand on that spot, its force will bring you back to Paris again and again.
What to avoid...
Hold your purse tightly. Gypsies swarm the Cathedral, preying on distracted tourists- particularly those who speak English. They run several scams from this site, working in groups, so be aware. Also, be sure to avoid eating on Ile-de-la-Cité. Prices are highly inflated and most of the food for sale isn't fresh. Better food, at lower prices, can be found only a few blocks away near Place Saint-Michel. Or, if you're going the other way, near Les Halles.
How to get there...
(M) Saint-Michel Notre-Dame
Le Musée d'Orsay
Why?
What to avoid...
I can think of little to put in this category. The Musée d'Orsay is a thinking-tourist's attraction. I have never seen it unreasonably crowded, and considering its magnificent art collection, 9.5€ entry fee is a steal. [Even better, the museum offers a 7€ concession fee for 18- to 25-year-olds who are not citizens or long-term residents of the EU; the same concession is offered to all-comers after 4:15 pm, and the museum is open until 9:45 pm on Thursdays.] Where the museum makes a real leap, though, is in it's café which, although over-priced, serves real, fresh, made-to-order food.
How to get there...
(RER) Musée d'Orsay or (M) Assemblée Nationale
More on what to see in Paris is still to come!
05 January 2010
Happy New Year!
We're now almost a full week into 2010. I hope the new year is treating you all well so far, and that your determination to stick to your resolutions hasn't waned just yet.
2010 will be a big year for me. I'm getting married in September, which, I can't lie, makes me feel a bit old. And makes me think it might be time to start acting my age. So, on December 31, I did something I never thought I would see myself do- I opened my freezer and placed my beloved MasterCard (the card that has brought me a Marc by Marc Jacobs purse, my favourite Mavi legging jeans and countless pairs of shoes) inside. Then- horror of horrors- I shut the door.
I know what you're thinking. Why? Why??? What would possibly have possessed her to do such a thing? But hear me out. I've resolved to be my best self in 2010. And much as it pains me to say it, I know that my best self isn't the crazed credit card wielding maniac whose eye glaze over every time she sees the word SALE; the girl who isn't above elbowing other shoppers out of the way to snag a last pair of shoes.
Beyond freezing my credit card, I've made several dull self-improvement resolutions; things like eating more vegetables, wearing my retainer on a regular basis and doing some form of physical activity that isn't jogging between stores.
But there's more to being an adult, I think, than taking responsibility for your health and spending habits (although in my case those two things are of paramount importance.) Up until very recently, I felt an overwhelming sense of powerlessness whenever I thought about politics. I was seventeen when George W. Bush invaded Iraq, and it was all I could do not to lock myself in my room until the world imploded. I was absolutely positive that implosion was imminent.
Over the years, I have toyed with ideas ranging from civil disobedience to running for office, but nothing seemed like the right fit. I inevitably concluded that, "There's nothing I can do." I knew even at the time that I was naïve and self-indulgent to think that way. After all, greed and corruption are not exactly new inventions. People through the ages have found ways to circumvent them. But naivete and self-indulgence are infinitely easier than the resignation that you might be destined for little more than mediocrity.
Just before the end of 2009, the Globe and Mail ran a story about the Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre in Kandahar. (You can read the article here.) The Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre is a school for women. It is also a sanctuary. Kandahar is a city at war; whether women are entitled to simple rights is question that is central to the ongoing battle. Outside the school gates, girls- even girls who have covered themselves completely- are threatened, sometimes assaulted. But inside, they are free.
As you probably know from my entry Where I wish I could be..., I have a soft spot for Afghanistan. I was nine when I first read about the plight of Afghan women in my mom's summer issue of Women's World magazine. I was instantly horrified and fascinated. The generation of girls robbed of education and childhood by the Taliban are my own generation; girls I might as easily have skipped rope with on a school playground. Nationality is, after all, nothing but an accident of birth. The fact that I am here and not there is testament to the fact that I am extremely fortunate.
In spite of the incredible adversity they have faced, every Afghan woman I have ever met has been strong, vivacious and resilient. (I remember Sheela with particular fondness. She was a girl after my own heart; a shit-disturber who wore nail polish under her burqa, just because she could.)
When I read the article in the Globe and Mail, it came to me. This is what I can do. I can help these women. My instinct was to pack my bags and fly to Kandahar. Of course that isn't realistic or feasible. Once I calmed down a bit, I visited the Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre website and signed up to sponsor a student. For only $20 a month- a total of $240 dollars over a one year period, paid in a lump sum or on a monthly basis- you can help subsidize a year of post-secondary training and English-language studies for an Afghan woman. I have sponsored a girl named Yalda. She is eighteen, loves the Twilight series and hasn't quite narrowed down what she wants to do with her life yet; she might study business, or medicine, or journalism. Apart from her heritage, she sounds a good deal like my eighteen-year-old self.
I highly recommend that everyone visit the Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre website and donate. It's a new year, but we haven't all magically changed- we'll get back to our bad eating and spending habits soon enough. Supporting the women of Afghanistan is an easy change to make- and it's one you can feel really good about.
2010 will be a big year for me. I'm getting married in September, which, I can't lie, makes me feel a bit old. And makes me think it might be time to start acting my age. So, on December 31, I did something I never thought I would see myself do- I opened my freezer and placed my beloved MasterCard (the card that has brought me a Marc by Marc Jacobs purse, my favourite Mavi legging jeans and countless pairs of shoes) inside. Then- horror of horrors- I shut the door.
I know what you're thinking. Why? Why??? What would possibly have possessed her to do such a thing? But hear me out. I've resolved to be my best self in 2010. And much as it pains me to say it, I know that my best self isn't the crazed credit card wielding maniac whose eye glaze over every time she sees the word SALE; the girl who isn't above elbowing other shoppers out of the way to snag a last pair of shoes.
Beyond freezing my credit card, I've made several dull self-improvement resolutions; things like eating more vegetables, wearing my retainer on a regular basis and doing some form of physical activity that isn't jogging between stores.
But there's more to being an adult, I think, than taking responsibility for your health and spending habits (although in my case those two things are of paramount importance.) Up until very recently, I felt an overwhelming sense of powerlessness whenever I thought about politics. I was seventeen when George W. Bush invaded Iraq, and it was all I could do not to lock myself in my room until the world imploded. I was absolutely positive that implosion was imminent.
Over the years, I have toyed with ideas ranging from civil disobedience to running for office, but nothing seemed like the right fit. I inevitably concluded that, "There's nothing I can do." I knew even at the time that I was naïve and self-indulgent to think that way. After all, greed and corruption are not exactly new inventions. People through the ages have found ways to circumvent them. But naivete and self-indulgence are infinitely easier than the resignation that you might be destined for little more than mediocrity.
Just before the end of 2009, the Globe and Mail ran a story about the Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre in Kandahar. (You can read the article here.) The Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre is a school for women. It is also a sanctuary. Kandahar is a city at war; whether women are entitled to simple rights is question that is central to the ongoing battle. Outside the school gates, girls- even girls who have covered themselves completely- are threatened, sometimes assaulted. But inside, they are free.
As you probably know from my entry Where I wish I could be..., I have a soft spot for Afghanistan. I was nine when I first read about the plight of Afghan women in my mom's summer issue of Women's World magazine. I was instantly horrified and fascinated. The generation of girls robbed of education and childhood by the Taliban are my own generation; girls I might as easily have skipped rope with on a school playground. Nationality is, after all, nothing but an accident of birth. The fact that I am here and not there is testament to the fact that I am extremely fortunate.
In spite of the incredible adversity they have faced, every Afghan woman I have ever met has been strong, vivacious and resilient. (I remember Sheela with particular fondness. She was a girl after my own heart; a shit-disturber who wore nail polish under her burqa, just because she could.)
When I read the article in the Globe and Mail, it came to me. This is what I can do. I can help these women. My instinct was to pack my bags and fly to Kandahar. Of course that isn't realistic or feasible. Once I calmed down a bit, I visited the Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre website and signed up to sponsor a student. For only $20 a month- a total of $240 dollars over a one year period, paid in a lump sum or on a monthly basis- you can help subsidize a year of post-secondary training and English-language studies for an Afghan woman. I have sponsored a girl named Yalda. She is eighteen, loves the Twilight series and hasn't quite narrowed down what she wants to do with her life yet; she might study business, or medicine, or journalism. Apart from her heritage, she sounds a good deal like my eighteen-year-old self.
I highly recommend that everyone visit the Afghanistan-Canadian Community Centre website and donate. It's a new year, but we haven't all magically changed- we'll get back to our bad eating and spending habits soon enough. Supporting the women of Afghanistan is an easy change to make- and it's one you can feel really good about.
04 January 2010
Paris: Where to Stay [Apartments II]
After extensive investigation, I've compiled a list of the ten most desirable properties for rent in Paris through VRBO. These ten properties are all available for long-term rental (one month or longer.) Unlike Ah Paris, not all apartments rented through VRBO are available for long-term rental. In fact, since the properties are meant to be an almost equal substitute for a hotel room, the majority are not available for more than three weeks at a time.
If you're willing to search, you will be able to find long-term rentals through VRBO. This list will get you off to a good start. [Note: VRBO does not always provide the dimensions of their rental properties. I have made a note of those that are available.]
10: #77737 15eme arrondissement 34m² 1500€/mois
Sleeps 3
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, internet access, DVD player
(M) Cambronne
Fabulous kitchen
9: #275340 4eme arrondissement 1500€/mois
Sleeps 2
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, DVD player, WiFi
(M) Rambuteau
Excellent location
8: #241273 18eme arrondissement 20m² 1250€/mois
Sleeps 2
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, telephone, WiFi
(M) Lamarck-Caulaincourt
7: #236802 8eme arrondissement 23m² 1513€/mois
Sleeps 3
Washer, cable, internet access
Nicely laid out, well decorated and maintained
6: #245104 2eme arrondissement 33m² 1513€/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, cable, DVD player, internet access
(M) Châtelet-les-Halles
Loft-style; beautifully decorated and maintained
5: # 78870 15eme arrondissement 45m² 1400€/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, dryer, dishwasher cable, telephone, WiFi
(M) Plaisance, Convention
4: #228190 4eme arrondissement 16m² 1250€/mois
Sleeps 2
Cable, WiFi, cleaning service
(M) Pont-Marie
On Ile-Saint-Louis
3: #250931 18eme arrondissement 1500US$/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, dishwasher, cable, telephone, WiFi
Excellent price, equal to about 865€/mois
2: #245354 9eme arrondissement 1200€/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, DVD player, telephone, WiFi
(M) Poissonière
Loft with Parisian-style courtyard entrance
1: #241034 18eme arrondissement 30m² 1000€/mois
Sleeps 3
Washer, cable, telephone, WiFi, bathtub, gas range and oven
(M) Abbesses
Beautifully furnished and maintained ; immaculate bathroom
If you're willing to search, you will be able to find long-term rentals through VRBO. This list will get you off to a good start. [Note: VRBO does not always provide the dimensions of their rental properties. I have made a note of those that are available.]
10: #77737 15eme arrondissement 34m² 1500€/mois
Sleeps 3
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, internet access, DVD player
(M) Cambronne
Fabulous kitchen
9: #275340 4eme arrondissement 1500€/mois
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, DVD player, WiFi
(M) Rambuteau
Excellent location
8: #241273 18eme arrondissement 20m² 1250€/mois
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, telephone, WiFi
(M) Lamarck-Caulaincourt
7: #236802 8eme arrondissement 23m² 1513€/mois
Sleeps 3
Washer, cable, internet access
Nicely laid out, well decorated and maintained
6: #245104 2eme arrondissement 33m² 1513€/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, cable, DVD player, internet access
(M) Châtelet-les-Halles
Loft-style; beautifully decorated and maintained
5: # 78870 15eme arrondissement 45m² 1400€/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, dryer, dishwasher cable, telephone, WiFi
(M) Plaisance, Convention
4: #228190 4eme arrondissement 16m² 1250€/mois
Cable, WiFi, cleaning service
(M) Pont-Marie
On Ile-Saint-Louis
3: #250931 18eme arrondissement 1500US$/mois
Washer, dishwasher, cable, telephone, WiFi
Excellent price, equal to about 865€/mois
2: #245354 9eme arrondissement 1200€/mois
Sleeps 4
Washer, dryer, dishwasher, cable, DVD player, telephone, WiFi
(M) Poissonière
Loft with Parisian-style courtyard entrance
1: #241034 18eme arrondissement 30m² 1000€/mois
Washer, cable, telephone, WiFi, bathtub, gas range and oven
(M) Abbesses
Beautifully furnished and maintained ; immaculate bathroom
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