Barcelona: Where to Shop

Shopping in a major city like Barcelona can be overwhelming- particularly on main avenues like La Rambla, where stores are packed in one after the other like sardines. But what is true of shopping anywhere is also true in Barcelona; it's all in where you look. Check out the stores on this list for what I can guarantee will be a positive shopping experience.

When in Barcelona, contemplate spending your hard-earned money at...

Accessorize           Three locations in Barcelona

This British chain specialising in- you guessed it!- well-priced accessories was all over Europe just a few short years ago, but has recently scaled back their retail presence on the continent. Luckily, there are still three locations in Barcelona, including a very convenient one in Terminal 1 at the Barcelona Airport. If you're looking for fine jewelry, you'll want to go somewhere else. But you can't beat Accessorize for their inexpensive, trendy earrings, necklaces scarves and purses. Some of my favourite pieces over the years have come from this shop.

BCN Books           Roger de Lluria 118           (M) Diagonal

If you need some reading material for your plane ride home from Barcelona, but don't read Spanish, look no further than BCN books. This large local shop stocks a big selection of English books alongside Spanish and Catalan titles.

Custo Barcelona             Six locations in Barcelona

After working with Meyba for eleven years, brothers Custo and David Delmau left the company to form Custo Barcelona... and they took their already famous t-shirts with them. A trained architect, Custo and his ubiquitous clothing line are known for brightly coloured graphic prints. The line has expanded enormously since the late 1990s to include complete wardrobing for men and women. If you want a true souvenir of Barcelona that isn't a tacky key chain, this is the store where you'll find it.

Desigual            15 locations in Barcelona

Founded in 1984 by Swiss national Tomas Meyer, this Barcelona-based shop now has locations worldwide. While it is primarily a clothing store, Desigual is relatively philosophical, striving to promote sustainability, tolerance, positivism, commitment and fun within its business activities as well as in its wide customer base. The clothes are cut in unusual shapes, and dyed unusual colours... this isn't a shop for the classic girl, but it's fun to explore nonetheless.

El Corte Inglés           Avinguda Portal de l'Angel 19-21           (M) Catalunya

The Barcelona outlet of Spain's largest department store is hard to miss from the outside; the white tile monument nearly leans into the street at the corner of Avinguda Portal de l'Angel, just off Plaça Catalunya. The store is almost always crowded, but don't let the crush of bodies at the entrance put you off. There are crowds because this store is incredible, particularly its groceteria, which is filled to bursting with all kinds of essential Spanish treats, including one my personal favourites: Schweppes strawberry lemon tonic water.

Joaquin Berao            Rambla de Catalunya 74           (M) Diagonal

Joaquin Berao is one of Barcelona's native sons. His fine jewelry, mainly gold and silver pieces done in a slightly architectural style, reflect the iconic city that he calls home. This is a fun place to browse- or to find a truly unforgettable holiday souvenir.

Mango            13 locations in Barcelona

Mango has already come up on my list of places to shop in Paris, but is worth mentioning a second time. The chain originated in Barcelona, and although it now owns 1200 stores in 92 countries around the world, the best merchandise by far is still found in its hometown. Mango stores in Barcelona are larger than they are elsewhere. If you're on the hunt for a particular piece that you've seen online or in a magazine, your chances of finding it are higher here than anywhere else. Specialty lines also arrive here first. And, best of all, prices are slightly lower than in other countries. This is a must-not-miss.

Origen 99.9%             Rossello 16            (M) Entenda

After you've eaten a delicious meal at the Origen 99.9% restaurant, make sure to take a peek in the adjoining shop. If you have any interest in food as something other than a source of nourishment, this store is heaven. Their products are so local as to be utter rarities outside of Spain. In other words, take some of that cheese home with you- or you may never have the chance to eat it again.

Topshop             Bergara 1           (M) Catalunya

This much-coveted British chain doesn't open shops just anywhere. (Although I must admit there doesn't seem to be a great deal of rhyme or reason to their choices; they have outlets in Russia and Malaysia, but none in France.) Pop into the Barcelona location to find a sprawling array of the relatively low-priced, highly-trendy items that the store is so well-known for. When Zara and Mango are right down the street (with much lower prices), Topshop can't really compete... but if you're into fashion, you'll want to stop in, just to say you've been there.

Zara            12 locations in Barcelona

Take everything I said about Mango. Replace the store name Mango with Zara. That should give you more than enough reason to visit this well-known chain while you're in Barcelona.

Our time in Barcelona is nearly at an end... check back within the next week to find out where One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is going next!

We interrupt your regularly scheduled post for this announcement...

Do you like the style of One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags but don't have much interest in, time to go or money to spend on travelling? Are you just surfing the internet, on the hunt for interesting reading? Does Cee's writing style intrigue you?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, you should visit my new online home, The FanTeeCee! Fans of this blog, never fear; One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags isn't going anywhere. The FanTeeCee is a separate project; one that I'm working on in conjunction with my BFFFFF, Tee. It's a more traditional blog, focused on our thoughts, feelings and interests. It's a place where anything can happen- and usually does.

If fun, whimsy and sparkle are your thing, The FanTeeCee is the place to be.

I'll be back later this week with another post about Barcelona... and this is the one you've all been waiting for- where to shop!

Bisous,

Cee

Barcelona: Where not to Eat

Not all restaurants - or all things, for that matter- are created equal. There are so many wonderful places to eat in Barcelona, I'd hate for any unsuspecting tourist to repeat my mistakes on their trip to the Spanish port city. With that in mind, I've compiled a list of eateries that have somehow distinguished themselves as sub-par; whether it's the food, service or atmosphere (or all of the above) that are lacking, I'd suggest avoiding the restaurants on this list if you can help it.

When in Barcelona, avoid eating at...

Fresc Co.           18 locations in Barcelona

There is nothing inherently wrong with the concept behind the Fresc Co. chain; they aim to serve fresh food at affordable prices in a buffet-style setting. In fact, Fresc Co. was immediately popular open its opening only a few years ago. Unfortunately, it's that popularity that caused its quality to go downhill. Fresc Co. simply expanded too quickly. The restaurants are everywhere. If you visit a busy location, you might be lucky enough to find that the food is actually fresh. Everything starts out that way. But because this is a buffet, uneaten food sits out until it is eaten. And with eighteen locations in Barcelona, a lot of food goes uneaten. Some of the locations are suffering so acutely from the rapid expansion that they turn off their ice cream machines to save power unless a customer asks for ice cream. (Anyone with half a brain can see the flaw in this plan, as ice cream must remain chilled at all times.) Be aware: just because you see this restaurant everywhere you go doesn't mean it's a safe place to eat.

Salsitas            (M) Liceu

Disclaimer: I have never eaten at this restaurant myself. That said, I included it on the list because I have read so many online reviews detailing both verbal and threatened physical abuse by staff against patrons who have questioned wrong orders or extra charges on their bill. Stay away.

Brasserie Flo Barcelona           (M) Urquinaona

This restaurant is owned by Groupe Flo, who also operate Le Boeuf sur le Toit, which I regard as by far the worst restaurant in Paris. Groupe Flo can be counted on to offer snotty service and over-priced, poor-quality local cuisine in an atmosphere that is shabbily maintained at best. Needless to say, their establishments are a haven for tourists, and likely the reason why so many North Americans think the French are rude. You would be better of eating at McDonald's than wasting your Euros here.

Barcelona: Where to Eat

Spanish cuisine has not been overwhelmingly well-received by outsiders. Aside from the notable contribution of the term tapas to the North American gastronomical lexicon; several exotic varieties of salty cured ham and that ubiquitous fish stew known as paella, Catalan food has made little impression on the food snobs of the world, who rave about French bread and French cheese and French chocolate (all of which are, of course, phenomenal) while completely ignoring the dishes that the French's neighbours to the South prepare with an equal amount of love and devotion.

In spite of its relative lack of status, Spanish food is wonderful, and there are many great places to experience it in Barcelona. You'll find a list of my favourites below.

When in Barcelona, you must eat at...

Cal Ramon           (M) Hospital Sant Pau

This family-owned restaurant near La Sagrada Familia Cathedral serves authentic Catalan cuisine in a friendly, low-key atmosphere. They have menus printed in at least seven languages but be aware, they aren't always good at guessing which one you'll need- after greeting our server in what I thought was French-accented Spanish, I was handed an Italian menu. Whatever language you order it in, the food is wonderful- it tastes more like you're eating with family than in restaurant, and rightly so, since the kitchen staff are mothers, grandmothers and aunts. Be sure to try the quintessentially Catalan Pa amb tomaquet, bread with tomato and olive oil. It doesn't sound like much, I know, but that's the beauty of Spanish food... it's so much more than the sum of its parts.

Alsur Cafe            (M) Urquinaona

A small Barcelona chain of three internet cafés (one in El Born, one across from the Palau de la Musica Catalana, one in Francesc Macia), Alsur serves coffee, pastries, beverages (both alcoholic and otherwise) along with a limited menu of inexpensive sandwiches and salads geared toward the students who make up the majority of the customer base. In spite of the low price point, taste has not been sacrificed. Sandwiches are served on tender, crusty bread and filled with fresh ingredients. All three cafes are in relatively central locations, so if you're looking for lunch on the go, don't hesitate to stop here.

Origen 99.9%            (M) Entença

If you want to take a little bit of Spanish cuisine home with you, visit Origen 99.9%. This is is a shop/restaurant, and in the shop portion of the establishment you'll find the best food and drink that Catalonia has to offer, from black grape salsa to serrat cheese, not to mention almost forty varieties of cooking oil. You can sample food made with the fabulous ingredients sold in the shop at the Origen 99.9% restaurant (99.9% local, they mean, the .1% being, one can suppose, a margin of error.) I could spend hours talking about the tender meatballs and fragrant cheeses I sampled when I ate there, but it still wouldn't be the same as if you ate there yourself. Do not miss this restaurant, under any circumstances. If you're not sure where to start, go for the cheese and meat samplers to get a feel for what appeals to you. And don't miss the chicken cannelloni.

Copa Café           (M) Sagrada Familia

This cute little café on Avinguda Gaudi has one major advantage... it's open on Sunday mornings, when everything in Barcelona is closed, which makes it an absolute God-send for early rising tourists from countries where sleeping is not of cultural importance. Stop in here for a quick coffee and breakfast on your way to La Sagrada Familia Cathedral, which is just down the street and, incidentally, open on Sunday mornings! The pastries are good, but for a more authentic Spanish breakfast experience, try ordering a toasted ham and cheese baguette to start your day.

More to come on Barcelona cuisine!

Barcelona: What not to See

Not all tourist attractions are created equal. When you're in Barcelona- and especially when you're in Barcelona without a lot of time to waste- be aware that the places on these list are not the wonders that guidebooks so often make them out to be.

When in Barcelona, avoid visiting...

Port Vell           (M) Drassanes

Until very recently, Port Vell was a rundown industrial area, home to empty warehouses and rail yards. Renovated for the 1992 Summer Olympics, it is now a tourist trap, completed with an Imax theatre, shopping mall and aquarium. If you're interested in really experiencing Barcelona, I'd give this area a pass... especially if you have limited time at your disposal.

Arc de Triomf           (M) Arc de Triomf

Many cities other than Paris have Triumphal Arches, however few of these arches come close to comparing to Napoleon's great triumph on the Champs-Elysées. Barcelona's Arc de Triomf, built in Moorish Revival style by Josep Vilaseca i Casanovas for the 1888 Universal Exhibition, is decidedly uninspired. Stop by if you're in the area. Otherwise, don't bother.

Estadi Olimpic Lluis Companys            (M) Espanya

As a resident of a city that very recently hosted the Olympics, I may be biased. But Olympic venues hold very little interest for me even when sports are being played in them, never mind when they are left as abandoned relics of past glories. This is a stadium, like any other you might visit in your home town. And if that lack of uniqueness isn't enough to detract you from visiting, consider its location- deep in Parc de Montjuic, there is no public transit anywhere near by, leaving a long hike toward the disappointing tourist attraction... and a walk that will seem even long once you realise how much time you've wasted.

Barcelona: What to See [II]

Every city has must-see sights; things that you cannot miss, even if you're only visiting for twelve hours, unless you want to hear, "You didn't go to [insert famous landmark here]?" from everyone you talk to about your trip. Visiting those sights is all well and good- only one rare occasions would I advise against it. But, if you have some time to spend in Barcelona and really want to explore the city, visit the sights on this list. Some are outdoor; others, I would only suggest paying an entrance fee for if they really interest you. But they're all worth a look.

More interesting sights to see in Barcelona (after you've visited all of Gaudi's masterworks)...

Barceloneta            (M) Barceloneta

A neighbourhood built in the 18th century for displaced residents of Ribera (where the Cuidadela was being constructed), Barceloneta borders the Mediterranean sea. If you have a day to relax, spend it walking the boardwalk or lazing on Barceloneta Beach.

Barri Gotic           (M) Jaume I

The narrow, labyrinthine streets will give Barcelona's Gothic Quarter away instantly; this is the centre of old Barcelona. Many of the buildings here date from Medieval times- a few Roman structures can even be found, if you keep your eyes open. Take your time wandering here- the architecture is decidedly different from the rest of Barcelona, and it's the intricate details that really bring it to life. This area is a particularly good place to spend a Sunday afternoon. Very little in the city is open, so you'll be free to explore without worrying about when you have to get to the next attraction

Plaça Catalunya           (M) Catalunya

This square is the approximate centre of Barcelona, and also the meeting place of many of the city's major streets; Passeig de Gracia, Rambla de Catalunya, La Rambla, Ronda de Sant Pere and Carrer de Vergara. There are several sculptures and fountains in the square. And hundreds of thousands of fearless pigeons.

Cathedral de Santa Eulalia (La Seu)            (M) Jaume I

Built between the 13th and 15th centuries, this Gothic cathedral is dedicated to one of the patron saints of Barcelona. According to Catholic tradition, Santa Eulalia, a young Christian virgin, was martyred in the city during Roman times. When she was exposed naked in a public square, a miraculous snow fall hid her nudity from view. Unfortunately, nothing saved her from the barrel of knives that the Romans then rolled her down the street in. Today, Eulalia's body is entombed in the cathedral's crypt. The cathedral built in her honour is truly stunning: be especially sure to visit the fountains in the cathedral's atrium.

Portal de l'Angel          (M) Catalunya

A long, pedestrian-only shopping and dining street, Portal de l'Angel is also the second most expensive place to live in all of Spain. In 2005, rent here was an average of 180€ per square metre!

Palau de la Musica Catalana           (M) Urquinaona

If you have ever been impressed by stained glass, visit the Palau de la Musica Catalana and prepare to be dazzled. The inverted dome in the concert hall's stained glass ceiling will take your breath away. Tucked away on a narrow, crowded street in La Ribera, this marvel of modernisme is easy to miss. But it is more than worth looking for.

Torre Agbar           (M) Glories

Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, this enormous and bizarre phallus is an eyesore at best during the day, not to mention utterly out of place among Barcelona's delicate Mediterranean architecture. But it's worth seeing at night, when it's lit in blue, purple, pink and red with thousands of high tech luminous LEDs.

Teatre de Liceu           (M) Liceu

The Catalan National Theatre opened in Barcelona in 1847. It has a long and storied history, including two devastating fires- the first in 1861, and the second in 1994 (which left the theatre closed for repairs for a full five years.) The Teatre de Liceu has witnessed two World Wars besides, and the Spanish Civil War, but remains in spite of the periodic chaos around it, its original interior and exterior largely intact. This monument is beautiful inside and out- although not, perhaps, as unique as some of Barcelona's other buildings, it is worth the visit.

Still more on Barcelona tourist attractions to come!

Barcelona: What to See [I]

While it is a major city, Barcelona moves at a slower, distinctly more beach-town pace than its European neighbours; crowded, bustling Paris and tidy, efficient Berlin. When you visit, you will find yourself given to wandering, distracted from your destination by the soft sunlight and unique architecture that abounds in the city. Give in to the gypsy spirit and go where your instincts guide you. Just don't wander so far that you miss any of these fabulous sights.

When in Barcelona, you must see...

Parc Guell           (M) Vallcarca i els Penitents

Located on el Carmel hill, Parc Guell was originally designed as a housing development in the style of the English Garden City movement. In spite of the fact that Antoni Gaudi designed it, the development failed- only two houses were ever built on the site, one of them a show house that Gaudi eventually bought when there were no other interested parties. Gaudi designed the development, now a public garden, to mimic the landscape that surrounds it. Admire his mosaic animals, gaze at the stunning views from the top of el Carmel. Spend time here. Gaudi has inspired many budding architects, but none dare to recreate his inimitable style. There is nowhere else in the world like Parc Guell.

Casa Mila (La Pedrera)           (M) Diagonal

The most impressive of the three Gaudi-designed homes in Barcelona, Casa Mila was built for the married couple, Pere Mila and Rosario Segimon. It was completed in 1912. A rippling, biomorphic structure, Casa Mila feels more like a museum than a home, which may account for why it fell into disrepair after its owners passed away. Now a Unesco World Heritage site, the home has been restored to its original glory. Visitors can access the atrium, the second floor apartments, the attic and the rooftop. Visit in the evening for spectacular night sky views.

Casa Batllo             (M) Passeig de Gracia

Built in 1877, Casa Batllo, was restored by Antoni Gaudi and Josep Maria Jujol in the early 1900s for a middle-class family. The home is known locally as Casa del ossos or House of bones because of its visceral, skeletal appearance. Some say it appears as though the designer attempted to avoid using straight lines entirely. No detail was left out. Nowhere is there more proof of that than the Smurfland-like rooftop. The inside of the building is equally, if not more, impressive. You won't be able to help but marvel at the meticulousness whimsy of Gaudi's work.

Casa Vicens            (M) Fontana

This angular brick structure is the last of the three homes designed by Antoni Gaudi and built in Barcelona. Currently up for sale, the home can only be seen from the outside, but is nonetheless worth the visit, as its complete lack of resemblance to both Casa Mila and Casa Batllo is an incredible testament to the breadth of Gaudi's many talents.

El Mercat de Sant Josep/La Boqueria           (M) Liceu

Barcelona's famous open air market has been operating in the same location since the 1700s. The space is enormous, incorporating bars and restaurants along with produce stands, specialty items and butchers. There is no more authentic Barcelona experience than this market- sample chocolates and cheeses and simply take in everything that the city has to offer. You absolutely do not want to miss this, so be aware, the market is closed on Sundays. Be sure to get there before the week is over.

La Sagrada Familia           (M) Sagrada Familia

This is the cathedral for tourists who feel like every cathedral they've walked into has looked the same. Designed by Barcelona's great master, Antoni Gaudi, construction of the serpentine church began in 1882 and is not expected to be finished until sometime in 2026. When asked about the extremely long construction period, Gaudi is said to have replied, "My client is not in a hurry." He was obviously right. Despite the cranes overhead, there is much to see here. La Sagrada Familia is one of the most visited tourist sites in the world, and when you see it, you'll understand why.

La Rambla           (M) Catalunya

If you want to do any shopping while you're in Barcelona, this is the place to go. La Rambla is a long, largely pedestrian-only avenue lined with shops and restaurants. Need a pet bird? You can get it right on the street. Dying to take home something from Topshop? That's here, too. The end of the avenue closer to Port Vell turns into something of a red light district at night, but during the day, La Rambla is the place to be.

More great sights in Barcelona still to come!

Barcelona: Transportation

Getting around Barcelona is easy thanks to the Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona or TMB system. With a modern subway system and extensive fleet of buses, TMB serves all of Metropolitan Barcelona. TMB divides Barcelona into six zones, for which different fares apply.

TMB Tickets are available for purchase at metro stations as well as directly on buses. But, if you like to be prepared before getting to a station, tickets can also be purchased at TMB customer service centres, metro ticket offices, lottery shops, most newsagents and Servicaixa outlets, as well as online. Single ticket fares start at 1,40€ for one trip on the metro or bus. Several types of multi-trip travel cards are available, including specifically designed tourist cards (available for 2, 3, 4 or 5 days.)

Don't worry if you're not sure where you're going. The TMB website offers a trip planner service; all you have to enter is your current location and your destination. That said, the TMB network, and the metro in particular, is very easy to navigate. Just follow the map!