Like most kids who grow up in Winnipeg, I have spent an inordinate amount of time in Grand Forks, North Dakota, a small city of little consequence that is home to the University of North Dakota and, more importantly, a Super Target. I have visited many states outside of North Dakota as a regular tourist, but Grand Forks left me with an indelible conception of what a city just across the border should- and could- be.
Seattle blew that wide open.
I am as guilty as anyone of going to Seattle strictly for the purpose of avoiding tax on online orders from J. Crew and buying an obscene amount of novelty junkfood. But the city has vastly more to offer visitors than a novel shopping experience. I'm not saying you shouldn't go to J. Crew while you're there. I never miss it. What I mean is that there are a lot of other places you should go first.
When in Seattle, you absolutely must visit...
Pike Place Market
Open since 1907, this farmers market encompasses several city blocks and multiple levels. Wander among the fresh-flower vendors and fishmongers at street level before exploring the plethora of oddities downstairs. From antiques and comic books to Chinese food and dusty records, Pike Place Market is a dream come true for amateur photographers. Take your time. Get lost. Leave and come back. There's no way to possibly take it all in on your first- or even your third- visit. Don't shy away from anything. Sure, the skinned fish with their tongues hanging out are a bit off-putting, but they're part of the experience. Make sure to buy yourself a $5 bouquet of brown paper-wrapped flowers and some fresh food on your way out. If you don't, you'll only regret it.
Pioneer Square
This is where it all began. After spending six months at Alki Point, the first Seattle settlers moved to this neighbourhood. They built their homes out of wood and, consequently, none are left today. Seattle had a great fire in 1889, and nearly everything was destroyed. By the next year, dozens of brick and stone buildings had sprung up in their place. The term Skid Row originated here. Yesler Way, the dividing street between east and west Pioneer Square, is sometimes known as "The Deadline." It was the northern border of an area once called Maynardtown. Respectable people didn't go below "The Deadline", for risk of finding themselves in Skid Row, home to parlour houses, brothels, pawnshops, hash houses, dope parlours, dumps and dives. Even police didn't cross Yesler Way unless they were travelling in a team. Venereal disease was virtually out of control in the neighbourhood. Today, Pioneer Square is home to gorgeous 19th century arcitechture; The Merchant's Café, Seattle's oldest restaurant; totem poles and even a few Skid Row era marquees.
Waterfall Garden Park
While technically located in the Pioneer Square neighbourhood, this gated park is a new addition to the area and not something you would neccessarily find if you weren't looking for it. Erected on the site where United Parcel Service was founded in honour of the men and women who have served the company, this Japanese-style garden is commonly referred to as a tranquil oasis by employees from nearby offices who spend their lunch hours relaxing here. When you're in Pioneer Square, stop by... it's like entering a different world.
University of Washington
The University of Washington is one of the preeminent research universities in the world, and its magnificent Seattle campus is a testament to its status. The sprawling university district is a vibrant community unto itself, with research facilities and lecture halls spread out within its borders. It almost calls to mind the La Sorbonne magnificent schools scattered throughout Paris' romantic and decidedly youthful Quartier Latin. The University of Washington is the American University that is more impressive than the characters in so many forgettable college movies... all red brick and white columns and gracefully fluttering flags. In that the neighbourhood is inhabited largely by young adults, it is also home to many of Seattle's best pizza-by-the-slice joints, second-hand clothing stores and an enormous Urban Outfitters outlet. If you've ever been nostalgic for the 1950s TV America- the one that never really existed- this is the place you're most likely to find it.
Check back tomorrow for more great Seattle sites!
06 May 2010
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