Paris: What to Eat [I]

France is known for its cuisine, and that reputation is well-deserved. I can't promise that every restaurant you eat at in Paris will be fabulous- in fact, there are a few I will steer you away from in a subsequent post- but, generally speaking, the French know food. And that statement covers all residents of France, not just natives. The whole world wants to live in Paris. Consequently, the city is brimming with ethnic restaurants that serve mouth-watering fare- with a French twist.

Before I make any recommendations, there are two things that all foreigners should know about French food.

1: The French put sunny-side up eggs and canned tuna in everything. Pizza. Salad. Pasta. You name it, they think it's appropriate to add tuna or an egg. (If not both.) Be aware of this, particularly when you're ordering pizzas.

2: The French don't really do health food. Their entire culinary culture is based on indulgence in moderation- and huge amounts of walking. Eating chocolate is appropriate at any time of day. Most French breakfast cereals are chocolate-flavoured, and no parent blinks before serving Chokella to their children. Everything is cooked with butter. High fat butter. And cream. And lots of cheese. Don't try to fight it. You won't enjoy yourself if you do. And the locals will think you're insane. The three best ways to stand out in Paris are wearing white running shoes, ordering salad as a meal, and skipping dessert.

Now that you have a better idea of what you're up against, I'll share my list of favourite Parisian restaurants with you. These are all places I've eaten personally some I've visited so often as to be recognised by the staff. If you're looking for a good meal in Paris and find yourself overwhelmed by the plethora of choices, any one of these restaurants can satisfy a craving for great food. Even if they aren't close to where you're staying, they are all definitely worth a bit of time on the metro.

When in Paris, you must eat at...

Afghani - 16, rue Paul-Albert      (M) Château Rouge

Mouth-watering authentic Afghan cuisine served in cosy space just steps from Basilique Sacré-Coeur. The restaurant opens at 8pm. There are only a few tables, so be sure to arrive for opening if you haven't reserved a table. There are several excellent vegetarian dishes on the menu. And be sure to save room for dessert- the baklawa, with just a hint of lemon and pistachio, is formidable.

Boulangerie Clignancourt - 4, rue de Clignancourt       (M) Barbès-Rochechouart

Dozens of perfect baguettes- crisp on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside- are made fresh at this patisserie every morning. They sell for less than a Euro, and can easily feed two people. Their butter croissants are a testament to the wonders of French pastry.

Restaurant les Copains - 17, rue de Trévise       (M) Cadet

This quiet restaurant serves generous portions of Kurdish food in a traditional French atmosphere- the low lighting and exposed beam architecture give the place a quaint, romantic feel.

Findi - 24, avenue George V       (M) George V

Just off the Champs-Elysées, this Italian restaurant lives up to the perceived glamour of its location. Findi is a feast for all of your senses; from the stunning, villa-style decor, to the attentive service and wonderful food. Boyfriends take note: this is the perfect setting for a romantic dinner. I highly recommend the Ravioli di antara e manzo alla crema di tartufo. (Duck and beef ravioli with truffle cream sauce.) I still have dreams of that dish.

Pizza Gigi - 33, rue de Clignancourt       (M) Château Rouge

Delicious thin crust pizzas to eat-in or take away. Unlike most restaurants in Paris- and almost everything else in its own neighbourhood- Gigi is open late. Really late.

Patisserie Ladurée - 62, boulevard Haussmann       (M) Havre-Caumartin

This historic bakery, founded in 1862, is now a restaurant with a full menu. I'm sure that they make lovely sandwiches and soups, but it was their macarons (small, round sandwich cookies) that made them famous. Macarons come in 21 flavours, including salted caramel, rose petal and bitter chocolate. Crunchy, chewy and lightly sweet, these little cookies are not to be missed. Lots of bakeries make macarons, but no one makes them quite like Ladurée.

Restaurant Marmaris - 17, rue Saint-Denis      (M) Châtelet

If you need good food in a hurry, this is the place to stop. Just off rue de Rivoli, its location is ideal if you're stopping for lunch between tourist attractions. Their paninis and sandwich grecs are generous, not to mention easy to eat on the run.

Picard Surgelés - Multiple locations in Paris

The best way to test the kitchen in your vacation rental apartment is with groceries from Picard. The French have, not surprisingly, brought frozen food to a new level of excellence. Picard sells everything from traditional tartiflette to Lebanese chicken pitas. All you have to do is heat and serve. Be sure to pick up some of their delicious, individual serving sorbets for dessert.

Pitzman - 8, rue Pavée (M) Saint-Paul

Locals and tourists alike line-up out the door and down the street to get a table at this Marais establishment. Famous for their pizza and falafel, la famille Pitzman are a warm, welcoming bunch. If you only visit one restaurant on my list while in Paris, this should be it. The Pizza Chavignol, with crème fraîche and cherry tomatoes, will have you coming back for me. Wash it down with an imported Israeli juice, thick with real fruit.

Restaurant Samrana - 47, rue d'Orsel      (M) Anvers

Delicious Indian and Pakistani cuisine. Don't be put off by the website- it would leave me skeptical if I hadn't eaten there, too, but trust me. The patates Bombay, a house recipe, make every trip worthwhile.

Patisserie Sud Tunisien - 17, rue de la Harpe      (M) Saint-Michel

Loukoum, or Turkish Delight, is an acquired taste. But if you like it, or simply want to try it, this little shop is the place to go. They sell fresh loukoum here, along with a wonderous assortment of honey- and rosewater-soaked pastries. The shop doesn't look like much from the outside, but don't be fooled. It really is what's on the inside that counts.

Topoly - 36, rue Saint-André des Arts       (M) Saint-Michel

Man'ouché is sometimes known as Lebanese pizza, but these flatbread creations, the main dish served at Topoly, deserve their own identity. The grilled flatbread is made fresh in front of you, and filled with Middle Eastern delights- olive oil, sesame seeds, mint, tomatoes, olives and thyme are just a few of the possibilities. There are several restaurants that serve Man'ouché in the general vicinity of Topoly- if you can't get a table here, try another restaurant. Unless you're planning to visit Lebanon on your travels, you may not have another chance to experience fabulous culinary creation.

If you know of other good restaurants in Paris, please don't hesitate to share!