Paris: What to See [I]

Visiting Paris, especially for the first time, can be daunting. Many people around you have likely visited, and are only too happy to offer unsolicited opinions about what you should see and do. It's easy to get overwhelmed. But don't worry- I'll give you all the details on what to see, as well as what you might want to avoid. And, best of all, unlike Aunt Jane, I won't be disappointed if you come home without having stopped in at Le Musée de la vie romantique.

Note: This entry will deal specifically with major attractions. Check back over the next week to find out about lesser-known things to see and do. There are some real hidden gems I can't wait to tell you about!

When in Paris, you must not miss...

La Tour Eiffel

Why?

Gustave Eiffel's 1889 masterwork, originally reviled by the French, is not much more well-liked by Parisians today. But there is something majestic the iron behemoth which, in the 121 years since its construction, has become one of the most recognised monuments in the world. You cannot go to Paris, especially for the first time, and miss seeing this monument up close. It will be crowded. The gun-toting soldiers casing the perimeter of the monument will perturb you. The ducks on the lawn will look at you pleadingly and stretch toward you, hoping for a handout. The tower, in all likelihood, will not be nearly as romantic or exciting as you have been lead to believe. But the important thing is to be able to say you've been there. So don't skip it.

What to avoid...

It costs 13€ to ride a cattlecar-like elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower. (That is approximately the same price as four really good paninis from street vendors.) The line for tickets is never anything less than extremely long. When you do actually reach the top, you will find, much to your dismay, that you can see further than you can out of your hotel room window, but that what you are looking at isn't particularly interesting. Paris looks better up-close than it does from above. And forget having a drink or snack at the top- that will set you back at least another 13€! Save yourself the waiting at the trouble by admiring the tower from ground-level. That way, it's free. (If you want to get a good picture of the entire structure, I suggest walking down the Champs de Mars, towards L'École Militaire. The view is largely unobstructed.)

How to get there...

(RER) Champs de Mars Tour Eiffel or (M) Bir-Hakeim

Le Musée du Louvre

Why?

Housed in the Palais du Louvre, a structure that began its life as a fortress in the 12th century under Philip II, this museum is one of the largest in the world. Beyond the Mona Lisa- which, I hate to be a spoil-sport, really is totally uninspiring in person- the Louvre, opened in 1793, houses a formidable collection of art. Da Vincis, Rembrandts, Raphaels and Michelangelos are all housed here. Antiquities from almost every fallen civilisation of any significance can also be found in the palace. The 9.5€ entrance fee is worth every centime. Absolutely not to be missed are the Napoleon Apartments, a relatively new addition to the Palais du Louvre where Napoleon III lived with his family. The red brocade opulence is everything you would expect from a French palace. Before you leave, make a trip down to the crypt, where you can still see remnants of the original Louvre fortress.

What to avoid...

Absolutely do not, under any circumstances, visit the Louvre on Saturday. The world's most-visited museum is most-visited on this day of the week, and you'll be lucky to see anything through the crowds of plodding tourists with constantly flashing cellphone cameras. Aside from tiresome tourists, if I had limited time to spend at the Louvre, I would only take a cursory glance through the Richelieu and Denon wings of the museum. There are 6,000 paintings between them, all dating from prior to 1849. After a while, the various depictions of baby Jesus as a chubby white cherubim all start to look the same.

How to get there...

(M) Palais-Royale Musée du Louvre or (M) Louvre Rivoli

Notre-Dame de Paris

Why?

This gothic-style cathedral, which took nearly two hundred years to complete, is as beautiful in person as it is on postcards. desecrated by radicals during the French revolution, it was narrowly saved from destruction (and subsequently restored) by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. Be sure to take a look at the back-end of the church- the flying buttresses that support the choir and nave will undoubtedly give you a renewed appreciation of the beauty that can be found in geometrics. On the grounds of the cathedral is Paris' Point Zero, the point from which all distances in France are measured. It is said that if you stand on that spot, its force will bring you back to Paris again and again.

What to avoid...

Hold your purse tightly. Gypsies swarm the Cathedral, preying on distracted tourists- particularly those who speak English. They run several scams from this site, working in groups, so be aware. Also, be sure to avoid eating on Ile-de-la-Cité. Prices are highly inflated and most of the food for sale isn't fresh. Better food, at lower prices, can be found only a few blocks away near Place Saint-Michel. Or, if you're going the other way, near Les Halles.

How to get there...

(M) Saint-Michel Notre-Dame

Le Musée d'Orsay

Why?

This former train station, built in 1898 and converted in 1986, is home to paintings dating from 1849 to present which were formerly housed at the Louvre. The collection included 43 Degas, 56 Cézanne, 86 Monet and 24 van Gogh (mostly notably Starry Night over the Rhône). The Musée d'Orsay's collection is distinct from the Louvre's in that, in addition to painting, sculpture, and architecture, it includes photography (and, of all things, a significant number of shadow puppets.) But even if none of those things interest you, I would highly recommend visiting the museum simply to stare up at the magnificent vaulted glass ceilings and iconic wall clock.

What to avoid...

I can think of little to put in this category. The Musée d'Orsay is a thinking-tourist's attraction. I have never seen it unreasonably crowded, and considering its magnificent art collection, 9.5€ entry fee is a steal. [Even better, the museum offers a 7€ concession fee for 18- to 25-year-olds who are not citizens or long-term residents of the EU; the same concession is offered to all-comers after 4:15 pm, and the museum is open until 9:45 pm on Thursdays.] Where the museum makes a real leap, though, is in it's café which, although over-priced, serves real, fresh, made-to-order food.

How to get there...

(RER) Musée d'Orsay or (M) Assemblée Nationale

More on what to see in Paris is still to come!